Saturday 30 July 2011

On the way home.

Up early as this morning we were leaving so we had breakfast with Francoise and the Australian lady who we met at dinner last night and who lives in Sydney, in the same area as Karen and Anthony. It was a nice breakfast but the pain au chocolate where not a patch on the day before.


The day promised to be interesting travelwise and started with a 40 minute bus journey to Agen and from there we took the TGV to Toulouse. What could have been fraught with challenges went extremely smoothly with time in Agen for coffee.

Although Toulouse is not my favourite place, it was really good to know where things were so we first stopped at left luggage and got the bags taken care of, then purchased the bus tickets to get us back to the airport and after that were able to chill.

We had a few hours to pass so decided to head back towards the basillica and once there, the little restaurant we'd eaten in the first night was bathed in sunshine and had a few free tables so we settled there and had a wonderful lunch as the photo shows.

After lunch we had a last wander up to the square where Sephora was visited to buy pressies and then back to the airport where I saw good the bet I lost and bought champagne for both of us, delicious.

It seems that we are now 2 sections away from the French/Spanish border so here's to completing two sections in 2012 and then being able to move onto Spain. In the meantime, we have 'The Way' to watch.

Last day, Auvillar to Lectour

Not surprisingly, there was a fabulous breakfast today and the Pain au Chocolate was too good to leave so had to take half of it with me for later.  Sad to leave but I'd love to come back to this hotel some day...

Off at 8.00, our last day and we bought quiches at the Boulangerie and Olive Fougas which is like Foccacia.


We knew we would be road walking and weren't looking forward to that but it wasn't bad at all. Most were minor roads with good views so plenty to see and admire. There were also some grassy and shady lanes to walk along.

We'd made the decision that as this was a very long final day, we'd stop regularly so we did. First in Bardigues, then St Antoine, Flamerens and then Miradoux. In most places there was a tap to refill the bottles and a WC and we had food with us.




 In Saint Antoine, which takes it's name from the religious order of the Antonins, after visiting the beautiful church, we stopped at the Gite E'tap so I could use the loo and while enjoying a drink in the sunshine, got talking to a guy who'd worked in Bradford for a while, he was in the weaving industry. He was suffering from blisters so Teresa gave him compeed for his foot.

This section of the walk this morning was a bit of a convoy and made us wonder if it would be more like this when we got to the Spanish part. It was made up of small groups and singles too. This was the pattern as far as Miradoux and then after that we saw no-one. It was as if everyone knew it was going to be 'bloody hot' and they stopped. Everyone had commented on us going the 'whole way' to Lectoure. Well, that was our destination so no choice.




Along the way, we visited numerous churches, all with these wall paintings that we'd seen in Moissac, rather like wall paper but painted and they were all so well protected.

Apparently at the correct time of the year, this undulating countryside is a mass of sunflowers, all turning their heads to the sun en mass depending on the time of day. That sight has yet to come this year but we'll be long gone. Sad.

We had hoped for a good stop in Flamerens as we knew there was a castle there. It's currently being restored and is 12th - 15th century. The castle was partially destroyed by fire in 1943.

There was a sign for a cafe but not to our taste at all and not at all in keeping with this beautiful monument. Instead, we sat at some picnic tables in the shade, saved ourselves money and had a lovely break.



 
By the time we got to Miradoux, we were knackered and we went to the church for some shade. It was really cool and we really, really appreciated it. This church is gothic and has an unfinished bell-tower. The village is at the border of Tarn-et-Garonne and of Lot-et-Garonne departments. 





The benches round the church were in the shade but all occupied and we needed somewhere to have our picnic. We found an area set up for picnics , well signposted and behind the Salle de Fetes. There were loos here too and we'd filled our bottles up at the tap near the church so we could relax and enjoy our lunch break.

About 50 minutes later, stretched and re-charged, we set off again into the mid-afternoon heat.


I love the farmers who've allowed their fields to be used for the "pilgrim paths' so we can be taken off the road. It makes the walking so much more enjoyable and also safe and we could see where, in years to come, others will truly benefit from these paths which will then be shady once the vegetation has grown up. Some are so new now that shade is missing but hey ho, you can't have everything.

We'd been led to believe that there would be lots of itinerary information on these sections, there was very little. We saw one telling us that it would be 1hr 15 mins to Castet-Arrouey and we covered it in about 55 mins but from there it suggested 2 hrs 30 to Lectoure and although we did slow down, it was more like 3 hrs 30. There was no one else around at all, hot, hot sun, no signs and therefore no idea of where we were or how much progress we were making.



Shaded square across from the Church in Castet Arrouy



Are we nearly there yet?

When we did finally see Lectoure it seemed as far away as ever and my feet were so achey. All went well at first and at least we were off road but then we turned right and I began to realise that there was a gorge like valley between us and where we wanted to be and of course this means a down and an up!!!

The down wasn't too steep and I could see that the up was at least at a slighter angle but oh, I ached and when we stopped at the cemetery it seemed as if I ached from all parts of my body.

At last we made it to the top, it didn't take that long, it just felt like it and we took photos at the cross. Another opportunity to stop and to get our bearings and thankfully we saw a sign to our hotel but of course circumstances got the last laugh as once we found it, we had to go uphill and to the right to find the entrance.

We had seen photos so knew it was going to be a nice hotel but nothing prepared us for how lovely. Hot, achey and tired we entered through this small door into a beautiful courtyard where the terrace was set for dinner and Francoise, that glamerous French lady who turned out to be from Belgium, sat sipping an apperatif. We spoke briefly and then went to check in and get showered.

Our room was of course on the 2nd floor and up very rickety stairs to what one was servants quarters but it was a lovely room under the eaves and had everything we needed. We stripped off the sticky walking gear for the last time this section and grabbed showers arriving down to dinner as different people. We were placed beside the jasmine with a view over the pool and enjoyed a wonderful meal. We started with raw salmon, with asparagus and guacamole and beetroot puree. Then had a main of duck which was huge and beautiful and served with ratatouille and the desert was layered strawberries, dark chocolate and cream, light and so tasty. All was washed down with a bottle of Gascony red and the feeling that 'yes' we'd done it.

Friday 29 July 2011

Only two more days of walking

May 10th 2011

Yet another good night's sleep and an earlier start so we could get away and walk further before the heat set in. Everything worked well until the signs caused confusion and we had to retrace our steps on two occasions. The first was when we were trying to find the bridge so we could see this magnificent structure on our way out of town. We did finally get there and in the photo you can see Teresa making her way towards it.


After that it all happened again and after a while of back tracking, we trusted to intuition and found ourselves on the canal....at last.

This sign at one of the bridges was a lovely touch.

As we walked along you couldn't help but notice that along this valley floor the river, rail, canal and railway line all ran in parallel, all vital to live and to movement and of course the path provided the opportunity for cycling and walking.

We walked the first 3.4 km in about 30 minutes
enjoying the temperature of the day and also being able to set a good pace and put the distances behind us.

After lock gate two, we stopped on the far side of it taking a seat on the bank and enjoying fruit, nuts and water as we people watched especially those who negociated the lock process and elegantly appeared through the other end.



We saw the two ladies again who we'd met yesterday so had a chat and put the 'world to rights' ourselves on this easy path. It was so nice to be away from the steep ups and downs and the environment was so pretty.

It was hard to stop taking photos so you will see a few included here so you can share the views I was lucky enough to see. Lovely bridges, interesting signs giving information and beautiful boats all part of a relaxed and calm environment.







As we walked we were just about to be overtaken by an older man on a bike but instead he stopped and chatted. He was a local and had lived in the area all his life, he had lots to tell us about his life, family, his work etc. For his health he was now cycling 10-12 km per day which he enjoyed and he also shared how much he loved to chat and he told us that he had to really discipline himself otherwise he'd never complete his journey.


At the 3rd lock, we stopped for lunch. It was a great spot and here is Teresa  looking very thoughtful, not sure whether she's pondering lunch or the onward journey.

Lunch today was freshly baked pizza bought that morning and very delicious. A German women from Munich joined us. She is on her second section but from Germany.

While at lunch, we also watched this beautiful yacht come through. An English family were on it, they were spending a year or so away from home with their young children, what an adventure.

As we walked on after lunch, we could see Auvillar in the distance on top of a hill and not much further along we crossed over this lovely bridge to the other side of the canal and then sadly had to leave it and cross both it and the Garonne and head to our destination.


Road walking is what greeted us, not our favourite but we figured that it wouldn't be for long. At one point we walked past a field of strwawberries and I've never ever experienced the wonderful aroma. I could taste those strawberries....I wish there'd been some for sale.


We'd been heading for Espalais and not knowing what to expect, that's the great thing about walking through areas you don't know and where there are not places you would have heard of.

Espalais, well marked, as you can see from the photo was lovely and clean and quite modern. We popped into church which was, as always, very cool and calming.

We found a great place that catered for everyone....


The one thing that was quite clear was that Auvillar was another of those great towns on the top of a hill..... so no option but to climb, but first to cross the bridge from where there were more great views and it was a long bridge as the Garonne is rather wide at this point.


Just after the bridge we were into the lower part of Auvillar at the bottom of the hill. This area had been subject to a great deal of renovation with more houses still been worked on, I assume there is more funding to continue this. In fact in so many of the small towns we've visited there has clearly been renovation, great to see and is giving all these places a new lease of life.

Teresa outside the Information Centre


What a lovely way to enter Auvillar, we passed some wonderful houses and one sticks in mind very strongly as it was situated on an end plot and the garden was on different levels beautifully landscaped with shade and sun and a small pool built in too - gorgeous.

Once in the village, one of France's most beautiful, we quickly came upon the beautiful market place with all it's signage inside dictating where different products were situated.

Auvillar's unusual circular market place






 But before we got too distracted, we wanted to find the hotel and yes, have that beer.

Our hotel, called L'horloge was going to be near the clock tower and this, seen in the photo, forms one of the gates into the village. 



The hotel was my favourite of this whole trip, it was a little boutique type hotel with a fabulous terrace shown in the photo and where we had a beer once we got settled and where we ate later in the evening. 



The hotel was my favourite of this whole trip, it was a little boutique type hotel with a fabulous terrace shown in the photo and where we had a beer once we got settled and where we ate later in the evening.


The owner carried our bags upstairs, how unusual is that and it was so welcome. Our room was large with three beds and a lovely bathroom and looked out on a little courtyard garden. We unpacked and having changed the walking boots for sandals, went off in search of that beer!


Relaxed and refreshed, we took off to explore our surroundings. We visited the church - Eglise Saint Pierre, which was beautiful and had much information about the Camino with photos and we spent time remembering our experiences of the walk so far, brings back so many great memories. There was a chapel of treasures and wonderful singing.

While there we met the French guy we'd come across previously and the very glamorous French lady who always looks as if she's just stepped out of a magazine. She came to speak with us later.


 The views from the church were wonderful and also from the spot near the tourist office so we took some photos and then relaxed in the shade with some very tasty ice-cream.
Teresa looking down onto the Garonne far below.


Hot shower after sightseeing and then a pre dinner drink and dinner. No choice but actually prefer that as you always great really great local food and don't have to make decisions. We started with a fabulous place of chacuterie accompanied bu warm bread, then duck with fresh vegetables and finally strawberry soup with ice-cream. I really must have a go at making this dessert at home including the mint.




Thursday 28 July 2011

Day three, what's in store for us today?

Monday May 9th 2011


The beautiful Auberge de l'Aube-Nouvelle in the morning sunshine and from our room on the top left, we had a fabulous view down the drive and over the surrounding countryside. Thankfully Teresa felt much better this morning and was up for breakfast - so glad she's feeling good as it's so horrible to have to walk if you feel ill. Breakfast this morning was fabulous, yoghurt and fresh strawberries, freshly squeezed orange juice, boiled eggs and croissants and the people who run it are so lovely.

View looking back at the Auberge as we climbed up and out of the valley.

Our destination today is Moissac and it's a shorter day, I'm really looking forward to seeing the town and it's Abbey as well as getting to our hotel earlier, it's been a little full on since we started this section.

Guess which direction we headed as we left? Yes, of course it was up but then we did turn off to the left. The temperature was ideal, warm with a little cool in the air. We had decided that generally we should get up earlier and leave earlier but with today being shorter it was great not having to hurry.

Our journey soon took us into Durfort-Lacapelette but we didn't see much of the place and were soon off and on a path leading steeply down. While heading down we met a whole mix of people we'd met the day before but this time they were all is different groups, interesting......

We walked through lots of orchards today and it was really noticeable how well populated this area was and very different from the past sections. There weren't many places to stop though to get food and water and as it was still very hot, we were a little concerned at how quickly the water bottles were emptying. Even some of the churches didn't have taps which is very surprising.

From the church at Saint Martin we walked down a minor road which lead onto the D16 which looked very French lined with it wonderful trees on both sides. Our path ran parallel with the road which was excellent and at times it went through woodland and was sometimes just a grassy track, easy on the feet though.

Having said that, I was finding all of this hard going again today. I'm really not sure what's going on. My legs feel so heavy and really tired and I'm really concerned about all the tension in and around my knees.


We were looking out for the church at Epis but it seemed a long time coming. We took a break at the top of a gravel lane near Fournaise and then not too much later saw the church in the distance. When we got there, the ladies we'd seen earlier were stopped having lunch in the shade. They were on their 2nd section and would stop before Lectoure. They'd started in Le Puy last year so were covering larger sections than us.

The church itself was closed but there was a tap with a lovely little statue of St Jacques beside it so we filled up.

We were then on the ridge for a while and then down to the hamlet of Gal de Merle with lots of new housing. It was very steep and my legs were aching. Unusual for me, I was really wanting to fast forward to Moissac and 'home' for the day.

Just before the main road that would take us directly into Moissac and was the easy option, we stopped on a 'pilgrim's bench' and I remembered the Bowen moves that Ivana had taught me. Why had it taken me 3 days to remember this??? It worked well and within a few minutes, yes, that fast,  my legs felt so much lighter.


We read about the different routes we could take and of course we decided on the varient route that took more climbing but looked so much more interesting than the direct one.

At the 4th turning on the right off the main road, we headed off the main road climbing steeply through more cherry orchards. At the top it was left and then up a more gentle path through a residential area and from the ridge got our first glimpse of Moissac, the older and much photographed part, which looked great. Could see the river but not the canal, wonder where that is? Of well, we'll find out tomorrow.

Here's Teresa climbing ahead of me but the photo doesn't do justice to the gradient.


The downs came later and one section which was very steep was on a grassy slope with blue metal benches set at regular intervals for people to stop a while and look at the fabulous views as Moissac unfolded.

As in this photo, someone had drawn a little yellow man to help us know where we were going, so cute and yet another evolution of the excellent signage that is omnipresent on the Camino.

Finally as we got to the end of the grassy swathe, we entered into Moissac close to the Abbey and into a little square with cafe's and the stunning entrance to the Abbey itself.




 It didn't take long to find our hotel but the bags hadn't arrived so we took our back packs to the room, dumped them and headed off back to the square in search of beer and lunch.


Moissac has been a major pilgrim halt from the Middle Ages onwards and the Abbey Church of Saint Pierre is a former Benedictine monastery founded in the 7th C. The facade is stunning. iThe Saint Pierre abbatial complex and cloister at Moissac are classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO under the title of “Routes of Santiago de Compostela”

The Romanesque portal, seen in this photo, finely sculpted and ornamented with a tympanum from 1120, was featured in the film In the Name of the Rose based on the novel by Umberto Eco. The sculpted figures, such as the prophet Jeremiah, are executed with a striking emotion. You can see some of this in the more detailed photo of the panels.l

030 the church roof collapsed, and in 1042 what was left was ravaged by fire.  




This is definitely one of the most beautiful churches I've seen, both outside and in but judge for yourselves from the photos.





 The beer in the sun went down very well, could have gone for another but we decided a shower was the priority, a good call, I feel.  Later stretched, showered and changed, we had a lovely meal next to the hotel and I had another beer, somewhat larger this time..... Celebrating time to chill, first time this section.