Final Day of this stage as we head to Aumont-Aubrac

October 6th 2008

An amusing breakfast this morning as this is very much a rural stop and run by a family so the gentleman overseeing breakfast this morning didn't seem to be in his most comfortable environment. Still there was plenty of choice and we left feeling well fuelled for the day ahead.

Our last day had a cloudier start which thankfully made it warmer. No headbands, gloves or hats needed this morning. We head up the track to join the path, somehow it’s a much shorter walk than at the end of yesterday and take a photo to mark the joining with the Camino again. From there we walk down to St Alban and Teresa takes an opportunity to stretch,  it feels weird that this is the last day and I can’t believe that it’s all gone so quickly.

Well just over 13 miles ahead of us today so let’s get on with it and revel in this wonderful weather and magnificent scenery. It wasn’t long before we are down to one layer, this day is turning in to a great one.

We stepped out through the woods and down to the little hamlet of Rouget named because of the red stone in the area. Here also the mainly red-tile roofs characteristic of the area and mentioned before change to grey slate.

An information point here gives us more information about the Camino, always worth taking time to read up a little on things.

From there it was on down to St Alban itself which was all closed up for some reason. Not even the locals seemed to know why.

Noticed a number of carved sculptures here too, like the one above, there’s clearly a story here.

No chance to buy anything for lunch so when we saw a tabac open we decided we should take advantage and think through our plans. The hot chocolate was good and the two women also on the route joined us there. Outside we met the German couple confused like us about this closure.

Before leaving St Alban we decided to visit the church which is the romanesque church of St Alban. There was a wonderful modern stained glass window which really stood out. While standing in the aisle of the church I decided to do a lunge which to this day Teresa remembers, she thought I’d suddenly turned really religious, we still laugh about it.

Down to short sleeves now, the heat was building, what fab weather to finish this section in style.

There are so many different signs and everytime I think there can't possibly be a different one there is. I've probably photographed them all by now but rest assured I'm not about to display them.


This one is pretty in it's simplicity and does all it needs to do having an arrow, the red and white stripe, GR65 and for good measure the scallop shell. I think you can probably begin to see what I mean about it being hard to get lost as the signage is so clear.

From here the path becomes a broad gravel one and at this point the two women who we'd had hot chocolate with pass us, it may be the last time we see them so we are keen to speak and utter a farewell.


They stride out and we walked through some wonderful woods marvelling at the views, the scenery and the colour against the sky.

At the top of the gravel path we stop to look at one of the tall stone crosses and also to zip off the legs of our walking trousers allowing us to walk in shorts. Here we meet the German couple again and stop to take some photos of each other. It's the kind of thing you do on the last day.

We ambled along chatting and soaking up the atmosphere, delighted at how well we were doing and enjoying the sun.

As Teresa and I walked further there was a rustle in the undergrowth and a red squirrel emerged pine cone in in his mouth. It stopped and then shot off wanting to put as much space between us and it as possible.This was a first of a number of interesting sights in the woods that day.

Not long after we came across this fun metal mask, perhaps it was the beast.

We also came across a well built shelter which really did look as if it was being used - by who I wonder?  It looks rather cosy.

Below are more photos taken on our last day, mot don't really need any explanation.

As lunch time approached we found out a good rock outcrop for a picnic lunch, thank goodness for the apples from this morning and then we pooled the rest of our resources and managed to have a decent lunch and all this in the sunshine too. It was good to have our batteries recharged and to feel energised as after lunch it was, yes you got it - up, up and up again so much so that my legs wanted to go on strike. I think it was something to do with knowing it was the last day.

When we reached the top I was so glad to see a road, now that’s a first and we knew that from here it was only a few kilometers to Aumont Aubrac and the end of the walk.


We only had a kilometer of this and then we could fork off right down a shady walled lane where on a tree we found this prayer for all pilgrims and a scallop shell.

It was here also that we caught our last sight of our lovely German couple as they walked ahead in the sunshine.




The first thing we wanted was a beer in the sun but no where did that so we found the hotel then sorted a taxi and returned to the hotel where we met up with those 3 lovely men from day one who still had another day to go.

They told us that there’d be a train strike tomorrow. Couldn’t find anything on the net so we were feeling pretty confident.

To celebrate we had a couple of beers, a croque monsieur and then a little visit to the church which was rather dark but again (like the church in St Alban) had wonderful modern stained glass windows.
 

Getting a taxi back to Le Puy was interesting and we were able to relive parts of our journey along the route. Hard to believe that we walked all that way. We were pretty tired and the beer probably added to it so we yawned our heads ff and all thoughts of going out on the town evaporated. Instead we changed and choose to have dinner in the hotel restaurant where we’d eaten on our first night, seems like a lifetime away now.

Next morning we sat at breakfast and watched a group of women who were clearly starting the Camino that day. We felt like experienced pilgrims by now and although looking forward to getting home we also felt a little sad to be leaving this all behind. Before checking out we wandered up through the town to buy some local products of cheese, wine etc to take home.

Back at Le Puy station, relaxed and feeling very pleased with ourselves and planning the celebratory glass of champagne on Eurostar as well as the next stage...wonder when that will be?

Saugues to St Alban

October 5th 2008

The first thing I remember about this morning was looking out the window and seeing frost on the cars, it was still dark and I was sure I was imagining it but as we started off Teresa was borrowing my gloves and we were looking at ice in the puddles and frost on the grass.

Breakfast was fabulous though, what a great hotel for food and I slept so well too. This one definitely gets the thumbs up!!

We set off at a fast pace to warm us up as we negotiated our way out of the town and found the way markings. At the roundabout we found this wonderful catapult, now how old is that?

Our way was also marked by this wonderful gentleman, how could you miss your turn off here. He looked so warm and friendly in the morning sunlight.

No-one else about. They were either way ahead of us or still wrapped up in bed, time would tell.

Along the way we came across an interesting phenomenon as there were a number of trees losing leaves like there was no tomorrow. The leaves were all still green, no autumn hues here and if you stood underneath it was like being rained on. Teresa wondered if it was something to do with the day warming up fairly quickly after such a cold night? You can see the road covered just underneath the trees.

On we walked grateful to have the incline which helped generate heat. At this point there were numerous layers being worn but that's what makes that kind of dressing so good, you pile on and take off as needbe.

This was a day of photographs and below is a range of some of what I took, it gives you a flavour of things. Some are of the many crosses that you come across as you walk the camino, some are old, some more modern but they all add to and report the history. Some are of Teresa and I and some of nature.

 A bridge brought an opportunity to rest up for a few minutes, have a drink and pose!!

As in the hamlet of Rochegude and with the kind monk who showed us the way, carved sculptures are  clearly a facet of this area. No where in my guide book is there any attention drawn to them but we've seen quite a number. This one of the deer and her young is beautiful.

We also have been wildlife spotting and both this thistle type plant and the bug attracted me. It's rather like the plant bugs we get in the UK

Love old doors and the fact that this one is dated and has all the equipment outside, made me want to capture it.

Just as we were feeling that we'd walked far enough and could do with a rest we came across this friendly sign and one of the Gites d'etap. We headed round the corner to find the entrance and coming out having had a rest was our German friend Gregor who we'd not seen since St Privat.

It was lovely to catch up with him and also to know how he was coping with the cold nights - Gregor was doing this trip the hardy way, camping.



This place was great, with picnic tables set out in the garden, a tap to refill bottles, friendly people and wonderful hot chocolate.

We sat in the sun and enjoyed and soon it became apparent that this was the stopping place for that time as the German couple and the two women all arrived too so we sat and chatted as best we could.

This was a blissful stop and seemed a wonderful place to stay too, when I wandered off to find the loo, I was directed into one of the gites which was really homely and comfortable. Great if you were away with a party of friends.

Loved the flowers in the garden, especially the  Hollyhocks in the garden always make me think of home as the seem quintessentially British or even English.

Also loved the gate we spotted as we left, again a lovely friendly and humorous touch.

After this idyllic stop, we walked on through forest and this time lots of beech wood, in contrast with yesterday's oak woods. The leaves underneath were turning bring some indication of the colours to expect although the canopy above was still very green.

Clearly some of this land was private but access was allowed as there were gates to open and close in a few places, it did seem rather strange after roaming everywhere for days but of course we did as we should.

Lunch today was taken on logs by the side of the path where we spread ourselves out and feasted. Having bought bread etc at the boulangerie in Saugues we are always happy to stop for lunch and food always tastes so good when you are eating it outside.

The German couple passed us and then we caught up with them later, just depends when and where you stop.

Today there were many beautiful roofs, this time of slate as opposed to the terracotta tiles.

A day of changing scenery and after lunch we were into forestry land and long straight paths which I find quite boring. They start off OK but then offer no excitement or mystery, something that Teresa and I also agree on, in fact I think all the East End Girls would agree here.

We'd had hailstones the day before and frost over night so I suppose we shouldn't be too surprised to find snow! At first I wondered what it was this white stuff, not thick and only in places but soon it became clear and it was in a really cool and shaded area where the sun didn't seem to have reached at all.

In the same place we also found lots of fungi as the photos show.

After this long path through forest and moorland we wanted something different so we weren't too pleased to find a road though thankfully that didn't last for long.


We stopped at the Fountaine Saint Roch which is around where you pass from the Haute Loire into Lozere. A little further along the road is the chapelle Saint Roch which is also known as the Chapelle de l'Hospitalet du Sauvage which was for pilgrims and travellers. It was originally dedicated to St James and then rededicated to Saint Roch after the Wars of Religion (1562 - 1598). After that it fell into ruin and a new one was built at the end of the 19th century and destroyed by a cyclone in 1897. The present one, seen in the photo, was built in 1901.

On the road very close to this there is one of the refuges where pilgrims can stay and get a meal. Teresa and I are doing our trip in a more luxurious way but many do still walk this way as pilgrims.

Soon after we were able to leave the road and take a grassy path down into Faux where we were staying the night. It seemed like all those we'd met were staying too and we all arrived at the same time.

 The sun was still shining when we'd followed the path off the main track so we dumped our stuff in our sunny room, changed into sandals and enjoyed one of those great beers in the sun. Then after showers we had a delicious dinner and a great night's sleep.