Saugues to St Alban

October 5th 2008

The first thing I remember about this morning was looking out the window and seeing frost on the cars, it was still dark and I was sure I was imagining it but as we started off Teresa was borrowing my gloves and we were looking at ice in the puddles and frost on the grass.

Breakfast was fabulous though, what a great hotel for food and I slept so well too. This one definitely gets the thumbs up!!

We set off at a fast pace to warm us up as we negotiated our way out of the town and found the way markings. At the roundabout we found this wonderful catapult, now how old is that?

Our way was also marked by this wonderful gentleman, how could you miss your turn off here. He looked so warm and friendly in the morning sunlight.

No-one else about. They were either way ahead of us or still wrapped up in bed, time would tell.

Along the way we came across an interesting phenomenon as there were a number of trees losing leaves like there was no tomorrow. The leaves were all still green, no autumn hues here and if you stood underneath it was like being rained on. Teresa wondered if it was something to do with the day warming up fairly quickly after such a cold night? You can see the road covered just underneath the trees.

On we walked grateful to have the incline which helped generate heat. At this point there were numerous layers being worn but that's what makes that kind of dressing so good, you pile on and take off as needbe.

This was a day of photographs and below is a range of some of what I took, it gives you a flavour of things. Some are of the many crosses that you come across as you walk the camino, some are old, some more modern but they all add to and report the history. Some are of Teresa and I and some of nature.

 A bridge brought an opportunity to rest up for a few minutes, have a drink and pose!!

As in the hamlet of Rochegude and with the kind monk who showed us the way, carved sculptures are  clearly a facet of this area. No where in my guide book is there any attention drawn to them but we've seen quite a number. This one of the deer and her young is beautiful.

We also have been wildlife spotting and both this thistle type plant and the bug attracted me. It's rather like the plant bugs we get in the UK

Love old doors and the fact that this one is dated and has all the equipment outside, made me want to capture it.

Just as we were feeling that we'd walked far enough and could do with a rest we came across this friendly sign and one of the Gites d'etap. We headed round the corner to find the entrance and coming out having had a rest was our German friend Gregor who we'd not seen since St Privat.

It was lovely to catch up with him and also to know how he was coping with the cold nights - Gregor was doing this trip the hardy way, camping.



This place was great, with picnic tables set out in the garden, a tap to refill bottles, friendly people and wonderful hot chocolate.

We sat in the sun and enjoyed and soon it became apparent that this was the stopping place for that time as the German couple and the two women all arrived too so we sat and chatted as best we could.

This was a blissful stop and seemed a wonderful place to stay too, when I wandered off to find the loo, I was directed into one of the gites which was really homely and comfortable. Great if you were away with a party of friends.

Loved the flowers in the garden, especially the  Hollyhocks in the garden always make me think of home as the seem quintessentially British or even English.

Also loved the gate we spotted as we left, again a lovely friendly and humorous touch.

After this idyllic stop, we walked on through forest and this time lots of beech wood, in contrast with yesterday's oak woods. The leaves underneath were turning bring some indication of the colours to expect although the canopy above was still very green.

Clearly some of this land was private but access was allowed as there were gates to open and close in a few places, it did seem rather strange after roaming everywhere for days but of course we did as we should.

Lunch today was taken on logs by the side of the path where we spread ourselves out and feasted. Having bought bread etc at the boulangerie in Saugues we are always happy to stop for lunch and food always tastes so good when you are eating it outside.

The German couple passed us and then we caught up with them later, just depends when and where you stop.

Today there were many beautiful roofs, this time of slate as opposed to the terracotta tiles.

A day of changing scenery and after lunch we were into forestry land and long straight paths which I find quite boring. They start off OK but then offer no excitement or mystery, something that Teresa and I also agree on, in fact I think all the East End Girls would agree here.

We'd had hailstones the day before and frost over night so I suppose we shouldn't be too surprised to find snow! At first I wondered what it was this white stuff, not thick and only in places but soon it became clear and it was in a really cool and shaded area where the sun didn't seem to have reached at all.

In the same place we also found lots of fungi as the photos show.

After this long path through forest and moorland we wanted something different so we weren't too pleased to find a road though thankfully that didn't last for long.


We stopped at the Fountaine Saint Roch which is around where you pass from the Haute Loire into Lozere. A little further along the road is the chapelle Saint Roch which is also known as the Chapelle de l'Hospitalet du Sauvage which was for pilgrims and travellers. It was originally dedicated to St James and then rededicated to Saint Roch after the Wars of Religion (1562 - 1598). After that it fell into ruin and a new one was built at the end of the 19th century and destroyed by a cyclone in 1897. The present one, seen in the photo, was built in 1901.

On the road very close to this there is one of the refuges where pilgrims can stay and get a meal. Teresa and I are doing our trip in a more luxurious way but many do still walk this way as pilgrims.

Soon after we were able to leave the road and take a grassy path down into Faux where we were staying the night. It seemed like all those we'd met were staying too and we all arrived at the same time.

 The sun was still shining when we'd followed the path off the main track so we dumped our stuff in our sunny room, changed into sandals and enjoyed one of those great beers in the sun. Then after showers we had a delicious dinner and a great night's sleep.