Back on the trail again

Saturday May 7th.

Up, breakfasted and off on our way by 9.00 feeling a little apprehensive about this steep climb from the bridge. It's described as the 'passage sportif' and you are strongly warned against it. We though, were not going to be put off and didn't remember it being that bad.

We walked through the town with purpose and remembered our route from the last time and then there was the bridge and a couple of walkers ahead. We wanted to have a photo taken to mark the event and were trying to decide who to ask when a couple of women stopped us and started to chat. One had done the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy a couple of times before and she said she would do it again. She was showing the bridge to her friend and no doubt telling stories of her trips. She was very interested to know about us, where we came from, where we'd started, how far we were going etc so it was so apt that she took our photo. She told us we'd made her day.

 Across the bridge and here were our signs, only 1km to the Crois de Magne... but all uphill.

Teresa steps out in style

 Wonderful views of the bridge as we look back as we climb up.

Steps and uneven ground but not that bad.

Our climb was nowhere near as bad as we imagined and soon we were up on flatter ground and speculating where this cross was and if it was the one we'd spotted the night before. Yes it was. We came off the track onto a minor road and turning left headed to the cross

What views!

Our hotel on the right of the photo.

It was fabulous to be up here and looking out over this wonderful scene spotting all the places we'd been and now it was time to throw on the rucksacks again and on to the next place.

We were on minor roads for a while now, firstly to get us up and under the N20 which wasn't our favourite places to walk.

I was delighted to capture Teresa in a stretch pose, she always illustrates what I need! Important though not to forget to stretch out those muscles especially after a stop - we'd to have that yet.

However, this wasn't too far away as soon we could see a path that took us off the road and then where we joined it again we came across a wonderful refuge at Domaine de Mattieux.

Lovely statue of Saint Jacques at the Domaine

Reassurance that we've come 350km, although a long way still to go!

This refuge looked as if it was relatively new and had a pool, a topographical chart which Teresa and a french guy are looking at. It looked at the route and the highs and lows in terms of climbs and descents but the scale was interesting causing us concern for the steepness of the ups!!

We wandered round to the front where we met the lady who ran it. She was delighted to get us some coffee and brought Easter eggs too, what a treat. She also took our photo for us.

Love this metal sculpture which is on the Camino. Will see it soon, I hope.

Refreshed and water bottles filled, our rote took us down by the path by this beautiful cross.

Half way down I managed the first fall of the trip. It was steep and stony and I set my foot on a loose stone which just went from underneath me. No damage done except for a scratch and a potential bruise so we got the first aid kit out and applied the arnica cream, well why carry this stuff if it's never used.

Saw a beautiful purply blue butterfly which was small but managed to flutter around continuously adding wonderful colour. I found out later that's called an Argus Blue and for me it became a really positive symbol of wonderful walking days ahead.

 At Labastide, we filled the water bottles up again at the fountain behind the church, this was the second or third time today. At the end of the village by the Mairie we found a little shop, cafe and toilets, all facilities needed by walkers.

We kept on walking and started to look out for a place to stop and have lunch and finally did so at Trigodina at a farm where a couple of picnic tables had been placed in a shady and sheltered spot. There was also a place to get drinks.

The wonderful food bought this morning was unwrapped and then fruit, nuts etc were added, as usual, a feast and we were then joined by this gorgeous labrador pub who , when he realised there was nothing for him to eat, settled down at our feet to demolish this plastic basket.


Although very warm, the sky was somewhat overcast and from time to time we'd feel the odd drop of rain and although cooling, it never really came to anything. After we left our lunch spot it became windier too, it was a bit of a strange day weatherwise!

At times during the walk our senses were overwhelmed with this wonderful scent and it took us a while to work out that it was the broom. As a child we had Broom in our garden but it never smelt like this.

Chapelle of Saint Jean le Froid

We stopped at the chapel and then marched on knowing that we still had about 8 km (5 miles) to go. Thankfully near here we were able to come off road and take a track that would walk us along the ridge.

The rain had started by now and we were enjoying being cooled but on the ridge, also exposed to the wind, the combination was rather cold so we gave in and put on light fleeces, waterproofs would have been just too sticky.

A little more road and then, back on a track, the longest and one of the steepest kms of my life but at last we came down into Montcuq where we'd say the night. It had been a long day of about 20 miles.

It was a pretty town and as many that we would visit this time, a hilltop town dominated by a 12th century keep. Quite soon we saw the sign for our hotel so we followed spotting potential locations but then t took us out the other side and we had just about taken our ruckcasks off at the Rocking Horse Bar for that beer when we realised that the next building was not the hotel and the sign pointed down the hill.

Two rather disillusioned bunnies continued and ended up what seemed like 2 kms on the other side of Montcuq and just before the town limit sign. We were exhausted and yes, you've guessed it, or rooms were on the 2nd floor and there was no lift. Also it was 7.00 and dinner was in 30 mins.

Thankfully when I got into the shower, I took the shower head down before running the water but it took about 10 minutes before I got any warm water, I had been about to give up. We were the only guests and dinner seemed as if most of it was out of a tin or packet which is so unusual in France, the vanilla creme brulee was to die for though, the best I've ever tasted.

Weary muscles which didn't get much of a stretch just about got me up to bed and I slept well even though it was chill and Teresa buried herself under spare blankets and additional covers. Tomorrow is another day.

Day at leisure

Friday 6th May and rather strange to find ourself in France and not out early on the path. In fact it was after 8.30 when we woke and on opening the curtains we were blinded by the light. We washed, packed our bags and were able to leave them in the hotel while we went off to get breakfast and explore a little.


We retraced our steps back to the basilica but no ideal breakfast on route. Instead when we got the the Basilica St Sernin we had a wander round the perimeter and then went to visit, no time like the present.

Basically it was very simple inside but the altar was stunning, very ornate and we were both commenting on how far it was away from the 'real people'

The Basilica of St. Sernin is the former abbey church of the Abbey of St. Sernin or St. Saturnin. and was built in the Romanesque style between about 1080 and 1120. It's located on the site of a previous basilica of the 4th century which contained the body of Saint Sernin, the first bishop of Toulouse.

 The photos below try to capture this elegance and simplicity.

Teresa standing outside in the gateway where the stonework both on the gateway itself and on the doorway, one of the entrances to the church is magnificent.

Still searching for breakfast, we walked up towards the main square and found a cafe serving coffee and orange juic, fromage blanc and coulis and a pain au chocolate, delicious.

In the square there was a market so we wandered, sat on bollards in the sun, explored a few shops and then did what you do in France, had coffee in a pavement cafe in the sun and watched the world go by.

It was at this point that we decided we'd had enough of Toulouse and that we'd rather wander round the old town in Cahors so we went back to the station and made that happen.

It was a lovely journey, how I love train travel and once in Cahors it was so nice to know exactly wher were and how to get to our hotel. It was all doable on foot so cases in tow, we decide to go via the main town centre and it was so lovely in the square, we stopped to have a beer - quite a habit we've got into when together. We decided how much we loved this place, I could definitely come back here again for a weekend.

After checking into the hotel, we were off again but without luggage for a wander and I was beseiged with a coughing fit. Apparently it's the pollen and I did notice it wasn't just me. Teresa's eyes were affected too and lots of people around were spluttering too.


We didn't go to the bridge as we'll cross that tomorrow and we'd visited the cathedral but we found ourselves at the back of it  where we found gardens, some used to grow the flowers for the altar and others gardens with herb beds for simple remedies.


Cahors has become well known for its gardens and in recent years, has created some wonderful small gardens scattered throughout the town. You can get a map from the Tourist office to help you to walk Cahors’ garden trail.

The gardens range from the small cloister garden of the cathedral to a beautifully planted roundabout to individual small gardens scattered around the town.

Although we sat in some of the gardens, it was soon time to chill so back to the hotel for a shower and then dinner. This time, we got our Rochmadour cheese in our starter, then I had duck and we both finished with cheese both being given large amounts. Hope there aren't too many vivid dreams tonight.

Landing in Toulouse.

This time on the Camino, Teresa and I are trying to cut down on our taxi expenditure so we're having an extra day so we can get to Cahors by public transport! Last time it had cost us 195 euros to get to the airport at Rodez.

The excitement has been building for weeks and days as the date draws near and here we are on May 5th doing it so much earlier then last year to get away from the high 30 degree heat.

We rendezvoused at Gatwick within 10 minutes of each other and after checking in with new bags that would take our walking poles, we went in search of coffee. All went smoothly, flight on time, bus into the centre of Toulouse and our hotel across the road from the main station and looking out on the Canal du Midi.

Our first stop was the station to check the train times for tomorrow and then the left luggage facility and then we went in search of a drink which we figured would lead on to a meal. 

Our route into the centre wasn't the nicest, well Toulouse is a big city but it was rather grubby and there were a number of down and outs. We found a busy little square full of people and managed to find a small table but after one drink decided to venture further. There's always a main square so we decided to see if we could find that.

 Success and there were lots of marquee type structures suggesting some type of exhibition. Wonderful space though, would love to see it empty. We wandered along looking at the buildings and wondering if we should eat at one of the restaurants lining the square. Concensus was to walk a little further so we did heading for the wonderful wedding cake type spire which we arrived at down a narrow little street which seemed to be filled with eating places.

It was near the Bascilica that we found a lovely little restaurant and ordered a salad as a starter and then a main course. The waitress helpfully suggested that we must be really hungry and if not, perhaps we should have the salad first and then see. We did, and I'm glad we did. The salads were so filling that we stopped there.

Thanks to the map we now found and shorter and much prettier way back to the hotel. While we were getting ready for bed, we read each other our notes of previous sections of the Camino, a lovely trip down memory lane.  We went to bed thrilled that tomorrow there would be no alarm and also decided that we would see how things went the following day. We may explore and take photos or may just head off to Cahors a little earlier.

Last day and the destination is Cahors!

Tuesday, June 29th

Up and ready to tackle the last day of this section and get to Cahors. Only 13 miles so perhaps we'll have some time to explore.

After a lovely breakfast at the Lion d'Or, we visited the local boulangerie to buy lunch. The lady who worked there was so helpful and the food looked delicious so we purchased Salmon and Leek tart, Croque Monsieur and Pizza, ll freshly made of course and some still warm.

We retraced our steps taking in the market that was just setting up and took a few more photos including this one of the cross and the lavoir.

Our first task was to find our way back to the GR65 and preferably not by the same route we came here.

The Lavior in Lalbenque.

 We studied the map and although it was still about 4 km, we choose a much prettier and not as major a route and how lovely it was to be back on the Cami ferrat.

Beautiful cross en route

The terrain is good today as it's much flatter and the views better so we're making good time, it's not as hot either.

We were on a pretty little enclosed path and we came across a sign about some refreshments for pilgrims but as far as I was concerned we were in the middle of nowhere. Then I could hear voices but was I imagining it. Not so, as we came into a clearer area to find the guys in the photo.

They set this table of refreshments up regularly during the warmer months to provide drinks and biscuits and what a lovely surprise it was. They wanted to know where we were from as they record the stats of the walkers. They were very happy to take a photo for us too.

It was a very pretty area that we were now walking through as you can see from the next few photos.

 The fields of poppies were much more stunning than they look here.

 

Teresa and I were been eaten alive today by mosquitos after having had no previous problems at all and at one point we had to cross the A20, a very major road , not nice at all and bringing too much civilisation. It also brought too many mossies to add their bites!

 After speaking to some other walkers earlier in the day, we had been warned about the water tap at a house just after the motorway. A good thing too otherwise I would have missed it and we really needed to take on more water.

At this time in the day we were beginning to look for a good place to lunch and we ended up at a spot on top of the plateau, described as "one more wild plateau before the descent into handsome Cahors", with wonderful vistas all around. There was little shade today but thankfully it wasn't a problem as it was overcast although warm. At last the chance to eat all those tasty things we'd bought this morning.

The photo says it all, one of my favourites.

 After lunch the downs started, stony - so lots of need to be careful and steep. Here Teresa and Chris try to keep going and keep from falling.

The path get's steeper and steeper.

 

We'd been told that you can see Cahors from some distance away but we kept looking and wondering where it was, it was taking ages. At first it was a glimpse through the trees where we saw very little. Then no view, then more and more was revealed. My most exciting view was when we could actually see the beautiful bridge, the Pont Valentre.

As we got closer we could see the old town on the other side and pick out the cathedral  which seemed huge.

 Now we were off the paths but the going down was still steep, poor knees and thank goodness for the walking poles.

We weren't too sure where the hotel was and we knew we were coming in on the other side of the rever from the main town but something made me glance to the left and there was our hotel right on the river. We were able to go and check in, leave our stuff, take the boots off and put the sandals on and go explore.

Bridge closest to our hotel

 It was so lovely to wander freely with no real plan, apart from the need to have a beer of course and celebrate our arrival in Cahors and the end of yet another section of the Camino. My favourite beers, Desperado, were on the menu so I introduced everyone to them.

Fountain in the main square

From here we walked up to the square and through the main road heading off to the bridge.

This is the one attraction in Cahors that is unmissable,  the famous bridge, the Pont Valentré. The bridge, built in the 14th century, has three towers each with large arched gateways due to its historical role as a defensive bridge, and a couple of places where you can sit nearby with your picnic and admire it. The bridge is also recognised to be important enough to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 Love this beautiful shell on a pillar just before entering onto the bridge and marking the way of the pilgrims.


This next photo was taken by me of Chris down below when I rashly decided to climb to the top of a long flight of stairs, it was quite a view.

The weir from the bridge

This view is from the opposite side of the bridge looking back and it's here, on the other side of the road, that we discovered that this is where the GR65 continues as it climbs up and out of Cahors. At this moment I was very glad I'd fnished but is nice to know where you're going next.

One of the things that Cahors is best known for today is it's famous AOC 'black' wine known since the Middle Ages and we were to have some of that with dinner. It's been exported via Bordeaux long before that region had developed its own viticulture industry.

Having crossed back over the bridge again, we walked straight across so we could go and visit the cathedral of Saint Etienne which is a lovely example of gothic architecture. The cathedral is also home to a museum of religious art, interesting murals and tapestries.

I was taken aback at the size of it and the vastness on entering. We wandered round each exploring the areas of greatest interest to ourselves and then moved out into the cloisters which are very beautiful.

As you can see I took a number of photos in and around these.

From the cathedral we let ourselves walk further and into the narrow streets of the medieval town which dates back to the 13th century and  grew with the arrival of bankers and merchants into the town. They built fine houses, usually of brick, often with arcades for their shops.

Good examples can be found in the Rue Nationale, Rue du Chateau du Roi and the Rue des Soubirous.
Parts of the original ramparts can still be seen in the north of the town along with the Barbacane and the Porte de la Barre.

We were hunting for Rochmadour cheese and came upon a wonderful fromagerie where no Rochmadour but other wonderful cheese which we bought to take home.

Then it was back to the hotel for showers and some rest and relaxation before a wonderful dinner which for me was fois gras followed by scallop risotto and finished with a brioche desert, all washed down with the local malbec merlot rose. All eaten out on the river terrace and followed by a night of very little sleep due to the heat.

Tomorrow it's home till 2011.