Small steps at first and the 'gotta get planning' is happening.
I've been planning work for 2012 and as the diary has been filling up, it's definitely been time to look at dates so those have been shared with Teresa and I have emailed Ann at http://www.worldwalks.com
We're hoping to cover two sections in 2012 so we can get to the French/Spanish border and would like to start the first one in mid/late April. Not sure as yet if the seasons have started then. Fingers crossed as getting the time in May is going to be difficult. Will keep you posted
Showing posts with label camino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camino. Show all posts
Monday, 28 November 2011
Sunday, 22 May 2011
Back on the trail again
Saturday May 7th.
Up, breakfasted and off on our way by 9.00 feeling a little apprehensive about this steep climb from the bridge. It's described as the 'passage sportif' and you are strongly warned against it. We though, were not going to be put off and didn't remember it being that bad.
We walked through the town with purpose and remembered our route from the last time and then there was the bridge and a couple of walkers ahead. We wanted to have a photo taken to mark the event and were trying to decide who to ask when a couple of women stopped us and started to chat. One had done the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy a couple of times before and she said she would do it again. She was showing the bridge to her friend and no doubt telling stories of her trips. She was very interested to know about us, where we came from, where we'd started, how far we were going etc so it was so apt that she took our photo. She told us we'd made her day.
Across the bridge and here were our signs, only 1km to the Crois de Magne... but all uphill.
Wonderful views of the bridge as we look back as we climb up.
Our climb was nowhere near as bad as we imagined and soon we were up on flatter ground and speculating where this cross was and if it was the one we'd spotted the night before. Yes it was. We came off the track onto a minor road and turning left headed to the cross
It was fabulous to be up here and looking out over this wonderful scene spotting all the places we'd been and now it was time to throw on the rucksacks again and on to the next place.
We were on minor roads for a while now, firstly to get us up and under the N20 which wasn't our favourite places to walk.
I was delighted to capture Teresa in a stretch pose, she always illustrates what I need! Important though not to forget to stretch out those muscles especially after a stop - we'd to have that yet.
However, this wasn't too far away as soon we could see a path that took us off the road and then where we joined it again we came across a wonderful refuge at Domaine de Mattieux.
This refuge looked as if it was relatively new and had a pool, a topographical chart which Teresa and a french guy are looking at. It looked at the route and the highs and lows in terms of climbs and descents but the scale was interesting causing us concern for the steepness of the ups!!
We wandered round to the front where we met the lady who ran it. She was delighted to get us some coffee and brought Easter eggs too, what a treat. She also took our photo for us.
Refreshed and water bottles filled, our rote took us down by the path by this beautiful cross.
Half way down I managed the first fall of the trip. It was steep and stony and I set my foot on a loose stone which just went from underneath me. No damage done except for a scratch and a potential bruise so we got the first aid kit out and applied the arnica cream, well why carry this stuff if it's never used.
Saw a beautiful purply blue butterfly which was small but managed to flutter around continuously adding wonderful colour. I found out later that's called an Argus Blue and for me it became a really positive symbol of wonderful walking days ahead.
At Labastide, we filled the water bottles up again at the fountain behind the church, this was the second or third time today. At the end of the village by the Mairie we found a little shop, cafe and toilets, all facilities needed by walkers.
We kept on walking and started to look out for a place to stop and have lunch and finally did so at Trigodina at a farm where a couple of picnic tables had been placed in a shady and sheltered spot. There was also a place to get drinks.
The wonderful food bought this morning was unwrapped and then fruit, nuts etc were added, as usual, a feast and we were then joined by this gorgeous labrador pub who , when he realised there was nothing for him to eat, settled down at our feet to demolish this plastic basket.
Although very warm, the sky was somewhat overcast and from time to time we'd feel the odd drop of rain and although cooling, it never really came to anything. After we left our lunch spot it became windier too, it was a bit of a strange day weatherwise!
At times during the walk our senses were overwhelmed with this wonderful scent and it took us a while to work out that it was the broom. As a child we had Broom in our garden but it never smelt like this.
We stopped at the chapel and then marched on knowing that we still had about 8 km (5 miles) to go. Thankfully near here we were able to come off road and take a track that would walk us along the ridge.
The rain had started by now and we were enjoying being cooled but on the ridge, also exposed to the wind, the combination was rather cold so we gave in and put on light fleeces, waterproofs would have been just too sticky.
A little more road and then, back on a track, the longest and one of the steepest kms of my life but at last we came down into Montcuq where we'd say the night. It had been a long day of about 20 miles.
It was a pretty town and as many that we would visit this time, a hilltop town dominated by a 12th century keep. Quite soon we saw the sign for our hotel so we followed spotting potential locations but then t took us out the other side and we had just about taken our ruckcasks off at the Rocking Horse Bar for that beer when we realised that the next building was not the hotel and the sign pointed down the hill.
Two rather disillusioned bunnies continued and ended up what seemed like 2 kms on the other side of Montcuq and just before the town limit sign. We were exhausted and yes, you've guessed it, or rooms were on the 2nd floor and there was no lift. Also it was 7.00 and dinner was in 30 mins.
Thankfully when I got into the shower, I took the shower head down before running the water but it took about 10 minutes before I got any warm water, I had been about to give up. We were the only guests and dinner seemed as if most of it was out of a tin or packet which is so unusual in France, the vanilla creme brulee was to die for though, the best I've ever tasted.
Weary muscles which didn't get much of a stretch just about got me up to bed and I slept well even though it was chill and Teresa buried herself under spare blankets and additional covers. Tomorrow is another day.
Up, breakfasted and off on our way by 9.00 feeling a little apprehensive about this steep climb from the bridge. It's described as the 'passage sportif' and you are strongly warned against it. We though, were not going to be put off and didn't remember it being that bad.
We walked through the town with purpose and remembered our route from the last time and then there was the bridge and a couple of walkers ahead. We wanted to have a photo taken to mark the event and were trying to decide who to ask when a couple of women stopped us and started to chat. One had done the Camino de Santiago from Le Puy a couple of times before and she said she would do it again. She was showing the bridge to her friend and no doubt telling stories of her trips. She was very interested to know about us, where we came from, where we'd started, how far we were going etc so it was so apt that she took our photo. She told us we'd made her day.Across the bridge and here were our signs, only 1km to the Crois de Magne... but all uphill.
 |
| Teresa steps out in style |
 | ||||
| Steps and uneven ground but not that bad. |
What views!
 |
| Our hotel on the right of the photo. |
It was fabulous to be up here and looking out over this wonderful scene spotting all the places we'd been and now it was time to throw on the rucksacks again and on to the next place.
We were on minor roads for a while now, firstly to get us up and under the N20 which wasn't our favourite places to walk.
I was delighted to capture Teresa in a stretch pose, she always illustrates what I need! Important though not to forget to stretch out those muscles especially after a stop - we'd to have that yet.
However, this wasn't too far away as soon we could see a path that took us off the road and then where we joined it again we came across a wonderful refuge at Domaine de Mattieux.
 |
| Lovely statue of Saint Jacques at the Domaine |
 |
| Reassurance that we've come 350km, although a long way still to go! |
This refuge looked as if it was relatively new and had a pool, a topographical chart which Teresa and a french guy are looking at. It looked at the route and the highs and lows in terms of climbs and descents but the scale was interesting causing us concern for the steepness of the ups!!
We wandered round to the front where we met the lady who ran it. She was delighted to get us some coffee and brought Easter eggs too, what a treat. She also took our photo for us.
Love this metal sculpture which is on the Camino. Will see it soon, I hope.
Refreshed and water bottles filled, our rote took us down by the path by this beautiful cross.
Half way down I managed the first fall of the trip. It was steep and stony and I set my foot on a loose stone which just went from underneath me. No damage done except for a scratch and a potential bruise so we got the first aid kit out and applied the arnica cream, well why carry this stuff if it's never used.
Saw a beautiful purply blue butterfly which was small but managed to flutter around continuously adding wonderful colour. I found out later that's called an Argus Blue and for me it became a really positive symbol of wonderful walking days ahead.
We kept on walking and started to look out for a place to stop and have lunch and finally did so at Trigodina at a farm where a couple of picnic tables had been placed in a shady and sheltered spot. There was also a place to get drinks.
The wonderful food bought this morning was unwrapped and then fruit, nuts etc were added, as usual, a feast and we were then joined by this gorgeous labrador pub who , when he realised there was nothing for him to eat, settled down at our feet to demolish this plastic basket.
Although very warm, the sky was somewhat overcast and from time to time we'd feel the odd drop of rain and although cooling, it never really came to anything. After we left our lunch spot it became windier too, it was a bit of a strange day weatherwise!
At times during the walk our senses were overwhelmed with this wonderful scent and it took us a while to work out that it was the broom. As a child we had Broom in our garden but it never smelt like this.
 |
| Chapelle of Saint Jean le Froid |
The rain had started by now and we were enjoying being cooled but on the ridge, also exposed to the wind, the combination was rather cold so we gave in and put on light fleeces, waterproofs would have been just too sticky.
A little more road and then, back on a track, the longest and one of the steepest kms of my life but at last we came down into Montcuq where we'd say the night. It had been a long day of about 20 miles.
It was a pretty town and as many that we would visit this time, a hilltop town dominated by a 12th century keep. Quite soon we saw the sign for our hotel so we followed spotting potential locations but then t took us out the other side and we had just about taken our ruckcasks off at the Rocking Horse Bar for that beer when we realised that the next building was not the hotel and the sign pointed down the hill.
Two rather disillusioned bunnies continued and ended up what seemed like 2 kms on the other side of Montcuq and just before the town limit sign. We were exhausted and yes, you've guessed it, or rooms were on the 2nd floor and there was no lift. Also it was 7.00 and dinner was in 30 mins.
Thankfully when I got into the shower, I took the shower head down before running the water but it took about 10 minutes before I got any warm water, I had been about to give up. We were the only guests and dinner seemed as if most of it was out of a tin or packet which is so unusual in France, the vanilla creme brulee was to die for though, the best I've ever tasted.
Weary muscles which didn't get much of a stretch just about got me up to bed and I slept well even though it was chill and Teresa buried herself under spare blankets and additional covers. Tomorrow is another day.
Saturday, 21 May 2011
Heading for the 3 star with pool today, what a treat!
Saturday 25th June
Well that was today's incentive and after a good nights sleep, I woke early and could have had breakfast but the other two were struggling to get their act together - sods law.
Oh well, off again and again it's over 18 miles. Think that perhaps we'll come earlier next year, walking in mid and high 30 degrees is not what we planned!
We're always chirpy as we set out and our first stop was to get lunch, today bought in a very pretty little Boulangerie where fresh rolls were made up for us. We didn't get much of a chance to see Figeac, what a shame. It has a historic centre worth an explore but we'll have to do that some other time.
We were heading for the Cross on the hill overlooking the town where the war memorial is so of course the direction was up.
This concrete cross has on it, the names of 145 people who were deported on May 12th 1944. A sad memorial to what has happened in the past.
Great place just to stop and think and to look out over Figeac as the view from up here is wonderful.
This climb is taking us onto the plateau that separates the Cele and Lot valleys so at least we know it will be flatter at some point. but not just yet as we have a little more up after leaving the cross and then we come to a second monument, this time obelisks marking the limits of an 8th century Benedictine Abbey
5 Kms into our walk we arrive at La Cassagnole which is the birthplace of Louis the Pious, the son of Charlemagne but we don't spend too much time here.
Teresa seems to have found her groove today although it's still very hot. I think perhaps she's started to acclimatise and often she was striding ahead. Chris and I were keeping an eye on her though and making sure there were plenty of stops and plenty of water.
Today we began to notice many little round stone huts, some in great repair as the one in the photo and some falling down. I believe they were used by farmers.
Or route today also included some industrial areas, not the most inspiring places but they did allow us to appreciate the wonderful places even more and as we walked into a place called Faycelles, we saw a house decorated for a wedding with garlands of flowers and arches all around, it was so pretty.
This, in fact, was one of our favourite places on this entire section and I still remember it so well. We passed so many lovely houses and then , quite by accident, found ourselves in a little square with a cafe and shop. We sat in the shade and enjoyed a well earned break and a lovely cool drink. Chris even had ice cream too.
A little alley from this hidden courtyard/square took us to the main village square where there were loads of people getting ready for an event which we soon realised was the wedding. We went to the church which was also decorated, again with garlands of flowers and every pew had flowers at the end of it. I think we all wished we could stay around.
On the church door we found a note pinned and it was for the three female pilgrims. It was from a German couple who were cycling and who we'd met and spoken to on a couple of occasions. How nice to be remembered. They said they'd see us in Condom but I fear they'll have been and gone long before we make it, still the thought is there.
On we walked towards lunch and found a shady place to munch our sandwiches. The day was beginning to take it's toll though as the destination seems to be as far away as ever and none of us felt we were making the progress we'd have liked to.
Views like the one in the photo of the cross do help though. This cross was set in a lay-by on a road where we were on the flat and the views out across the countryside were stunning. A great reason to stop again and look.
After Faycelles and Beduer, the landscape changes. Menhirs which are tall upright stones of a kind erected in prehistoric times in western Europe and dolmens appear, along with charming dry-stone constructions which accompany us the whole way to Grealou which is in the extreme south of the regional park of the Causses du Quercy.
Poor Teresa was struggling again at this point of the journey although none of us were finding it easy and we still had a while to go. We pushed on to Greyalou where we hoped to find a bar where we could rest and get water but when we finally did make it, no thanks to changing signs, there was nothing. Teresa stopped on a wall looking shattered and pale and I stopped a local gentleman who at least was able to point me in the direction of a tap. There was also a picnic area in the shade so after a while I persuaded Teresa to move over to this area.
It was at this point that we wisely decided to call it a day. Teresa could not go on and there was no way we were leaving her on her own.
Now getting a taxi in the middle of rural France is not easy but at least we had a french contact from the holiday company so I called Alexandra and bit by bit we got it organised. Of course by the time the taxi/ambulance arrived - I think they were prepared for the worst, Teresa was feeling a bit better.
The drama was not over yet though....... This was the day of the 3 star hotel and the pool but by the time we got to the hotel it was after 6.30 and although the pool looked superb, there was no record of a booking for us. Just what we needed. To cut a long story short it was the hotel's mistake and they had made a booking for the following evening. They did sort it though, calling around and getting us another 3 star hotel about 30 minutes drive away. We were taken there, everything sorted and it too had a lovely pool but by the time we arrived it was after 8.00 and they insisted we be down for dinner on the terrace by 9.30 so they could take our order.
This was a lovely hotel, our room were superb and all we could do was take off our boots and get downstairs, no shower, no changing. I felt so grubby sitting out on this wonderful terrace on a balmy evening and choosing from a wonderful menue. It was made even worse when they actually didn't get round to taking the order till 9.00!!
Watching the sun set, we dined on souffle of scallops and then duck, Chris had steak and then I had the most wonderful chocolaty desert of the kind Ellie loves. What a great end to a somewhat traumatic day.
Well that was today's incentive and after a good nights sleep, I woke early and could have had breakfast but the other two were struggling to get their act together - sods law.
Oh well, off again and again it's over 18 miles. Think that perhaps we'll come earlier next year, walking in mid and high 30 degrees is not what we planned!
We're always chirpy as we set out and our first stop was to get lunch, today bought in a very pretty little Boulangerie where fresh rolls were made up for us. We didn't get much of a chance to see Figeac, what a shame. It has a historic centre worth an explore but we'll have to do that some other time.
 | ||
| Heather by the River with last night's restaurant in the background |
 |
| Chris stops for a breather on the way up. |
This concrete cross has on it, the names of 145 people who were deported on May 12th 1944. A sad memorial to what has happened in the past.
Great place just to stop and think and to look out over Figeac as the view from up here is wonderful.
This climb is taking us onto the plateau that separates the Cele and Lot valleys so at least we know it will be flatter at some point. but not just yet as we have a little more up after leaving the cross and then we come to a second monument, this time obelisks marking the limits of an 8th century Benedictine Abbey
5 Kms into our walk we arrive at La Cassagnole which is the birthplace of Louis the Pious, the son of Charlemagne but we don't spend too much time here.
 |
| Beautiful poppies by the road side |
Teresa seems to have found her groove today although it's still very hot. I think perhaps she's started to acclimatise and often she was striding ahead. Chris and I were keeping an eye on her though and making sure there were plenty of stops and plenty of water.
Today we began to notice many little round stone huts, some in great repair as the one in the photo and some falling down. I believe they were used by farmers.
This, in fact, was one of our favourite places on this entire section and I still remember it so well. We passed so many lovely houses and then , quite by accident, found ourselves in a little square with a cafe and shop. We sat in the shade and enjoyed a well earned break and a lovely cool drink. Chris even had ice cream too.
 |
| Beautiful gate in Faycelles |
A little alley from this hidden courtyard/square took us to the main village square where there were loads of people getting ready for an event which we soon realised was the wedding. We went to the church which was also decorated, again with garlands of flowers and every pew had flowers at the end of it. I think we all wished we could stay around.
On the church door we found a note pinned and it was for the three female pilgrims. It was from a German couple who were cycling and who we'd met and spoken to on a couple of occasions. How nice to be remembered. They said they'd see us in Condom but I fear they'll have been and gone long before we make it, still the thought is there.
Views like the one in the photo of the cross do help though. This cross was set in a lay-by on a road where we were on the flat and the views out across the countryside were stunning. A great reason to stop again and look.
After Faycelles and Beduer, the landscape changes. Menhirs which are tall upright stones of a kind erected in prehistoric times in western Europe and dolmens appear, along with charming dry-stone constructions which accompany us the whole way to Grealou which is in the extreme south of the regional park of the Causses du Quercy.
Poor Teresa was struggling again at this point of the journey although none of us were finding it easy and we still had a while to go. We pushed on to Greyalou where we hoped to find a bar where we could rest and get water but when we finally did make it, no thanks to changing signs, there was nothing. Teresa stopped on a wall looking shattered and pale and I stopped a local gentleman who at least was able to point me in the direction of a tap. There was also a picnic area in the shade so after a while I persuaded Teresa to move over to this area.
It was at this point that we wisely decided to call it a day. Teresa could not go on and there was no way we were leaving her on her own.
Now getting a taxi in the middle of rural France is not easy but at least we had a french contact from the holiday company so I called Alexandra and bit by bit we got it organised. Of course by the time the taxi/ambulance arrived - I think they were prepared for the worst, Teresa was feeling a bit better.
The drama was not over yet though....... This was the day of the 3 star hotel and the pool but by the time we got to the hotel it was after 6.30 and although the pool looked superb, there was no record of a booking for us. Just what we needed. To cut a long story short it was the hotel's mistake and they had made a booking for the following evening. They did sort it though, calling around and getting us another 3 star hotel about 30 minutes drive away. We were taken there, everything sorted and it too had a lovely pool but by the time we arrived it was after 8.00 and they insisted we be down for dinner on the terrace by 9.30 so they could take our order.This was a lovely hotel, our room were superb and all we could do was take off our boots and get downstairs, no shower, no changing. I felt so grubby sitting out on this wonderful terrace on a balmy evening and choosing from a wonderful menue. It was made even worse when they actually didn't get round to taking the order till 9.00!!
Friday, 20 May 2011
Oct 3rd and it's Estaing to Esperyac
This was the autumnal sight that greeted us this morning when we pulled back the curtains, the mist shrouding the hills opposite and the bridge heading towards that mist, all rather grey and dismal. It was much in contrast with the day before when we arrived in sunshine but that's what you get at this time of the year.
Today the route continues along the Lot Valley and then of course there is the daily climb but before that breakfast, always something to be enjoyed even if basic french bread and coffee!!
After crossing the bridge we took a right taking us down towards the river and the grey was brightened by the sight, again autumnal, of a garden with pumpkins and gourds. Here's one I captured on camera.
From these gardens it was walking along the river and the wonderful River Lot looking very mysterious with mist rising from the water .
As we climbed above the Lot gorges to reach the Rouergue plateau we could look back and see the mist lifting over the river.
Our walk now was along little country roads, quiet and picturesque and if you have to walk on raids, the best kind to have.
One of the highlights of my day was finding a little shrine to a gentleman who was born locally and lived in this area all his life who walked the trails daily and whose photo and message was there for all to read. He would have been a lovely character to meet. In the photo Teresa is telling me his story and bringing me up to date with where we have chosen to stop and have our break.
Next stop Golinhac, an ancient resting place on the St. James Way and where we opted to have lunch. We'd bought our lunch in Estaing so picnic-ed in a lovely spot where we fed the local cat on slivers of fat from the ham and where we could look out over such an inspiring panorama.
 | |||
| Captured this little fellow as he looked for pollen | . |
From where we'd had lunch it was a short wander across the square to the church and wonderful sunlight adding a different dimension to things inside.
Uphill a little further from Golinhac and onwards towards our destination for the evening and plenty of French country scenes like the lady in the photo and nature's produce.
I have mentioned signage before and I am forever amazed at the number of different signs and also the way that symbols like the Scallop shell are used.
Here is that symbol again used on one of the hotels which very clearly marks it out as being on this historic route and also a hotel where pilgrims stay.
At this stage we were looking for our hotel and finally found it towards the bottom of the village and happily across the road from a little shop selling bread and other provisions. It's a Sunday tomorrow and it's always important to find out if you can buy on a Sunday or whether you should stock up the night before. We paid a visit, only to be informed by the very cheery shopkeeper that he would be open in the morning so no need to panic.
Now we could turn our thought to check in, that refreshing beer to celebrate then end of another day and a shower before dinner.
We found the lady of the hotel and then followed her to our room - now why, when we were the only people staying, as we found out later, were we on the 2nd (top) floor and in the furtherest room away? Of course there was no lift and no-one ever offers to carry your bag.
The room was fine so we dumped the stuff and headed back down for that beer and the chance to grab the last rays and warmth of the sun.
There was something in the air regarding the hotel and even then we put it down to the end of the season but we felt more of an inconvenience than anything else so it wasn't surprising really that things didn't measure up.
The starter was brawn. OK, it is eaten in France but it's not the usual thing to give to international guests. The main was salmon which was not well cooked and appeared to be more thrown together. We had to ask for bread and water and by this stage the lay clearly felt our disappointment and dissatisfaction as she sent her husband in with desert which was a tin of fruit salad opened and split between two sundae glasses. Well I wouldn't have eaten it at any stage in my life and wasn't going to now so we got up and went to bed. What a shame!!
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