Day 2 of our first section - St Privat to Saugues

October 4th 2008

Instead of the 14 miles we expected yesterday, we covered about 20, all those false turns and mistakes. I didn't ache though showing that the exercise routine and gets against the walk works although it is quite funny to see especially when two of us are doing it together.

I didn't sleep well last night and remember struggling to find the bathroom in the middle of the night in the pitch black. I was trying so hard not to wake Teresa and I kept ending up in the shower room, glad I wasn't on camera for that.

The sun was shining when we drew back the curtains and the view from whence we'd come yesterday was clear, interesting to see where we'd walked trying to find our sleeping spot. It was cold though so layers were applied.

There were only two of us for breakfast, think the others must have been sleeping it off. We feasted on freshly baked bread and jam and then were given a lift to St Privat to start this second section.


Now a green dragon is not what you expect when you arrive in a small rural French village but there was one none the less just across the road from a little shop selling all we needed for lunch, fresh bread, cheese, ham and some fruit. Nearly makes you want to have lunch already.

It seemed to be all ups for the first part of the journey but it was steady and I had plenty of opportunity to take photos in this wonderful morning light. The sky was an amazing blue and there were plenty of colours against giving great contrast. The church in amongst the trees looked mysterious as we looked back on it.

Here are some of the coloured plants and berries we passed.

3 kms into the walk we came to the hamlet of Rochegude and from the photo you can see the bells of the chapel to the left and the tower on the rocky outcrop. This tower is all that remains from the chateaux.

Both chapel and tower are built on or into the rock. The Chapel is dedicated to St James and inside was beautiful with sunlight streaming in the window.




Being so high the views are amazing and later in the day we were in a position of being able to look back across the valley at this place.

In the hamlet itself, everywhere you turned there were carved of sculptures of different types of mushrooms and owls and other birds. The mushrooms reminded me of the wonderful ones we'd eaten the night before.

A short break like this is always good and on the way down over very stony ground it was really important to concentrate. Here Teresa leads the way.

Lots of oak trees here, many extremely old but everywhere you looked there were new saplings rising up. The colours were lovely.

Although autumn this whole area seemed so alive
and there was a scent of mushrooms too, perhaps just like those we'd had for dinner.


Here I am too, having a rest in the heather, very appropriate.

I feel very privileged  to be walking in this wonderful scenery and weather and for the ability and support of my family to be able to take this time out and go and do what I love.  This opportunity to recharge my batteries and be out in nature really does bring great benefits.

I'm also grateful to have Teresa as my walking partner. The wrong person would change the dynamic completely and Teresa and I seem to be falling into the way of this well. We are very in tune from everything from the time to take a break to what we should stop and see and what we should eat, such a lovely and easy way to be.

After missing a turning and getting a little confused, we managed to get back on track and on the road down to Monistrol d'Allier these are the stunning colours that awaited us.

The town/village of Monistrol is a hub of hydroelectric power and the road, rail and river all come together here. The metal bridge is quite a sight and we weren't that surprised to find it was built by a certain Monsieur Eiffel, I wonder why.

We took our time walking across enjoying the views and taking photos from this vantage point above the river Allier.








We had been looking forward to a snack in the cafe here but it was not to be. The cafe closes early on a Saturday so all dreams of a chocolate chaud were dashed. Probably for the best!!

The hot chocolate might have given us the energy for the long climb up though out of the valley. However, the views behind gave us a good excuse to stop and catch our breath. 

We stopped to admire this cross and my eye was caught by the columns to the left of it which looked so similar to those of the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. I know there are some in Scotland on the Isle of Staffa but I'd never come across them anywhere else.

Closer examination further up the road gave me a chance to see them again and they do look familiar, made me feel at home. Of course have not got round to any further research into this but that's OK.

The road was becoming long at this point so it was lovely to see a sign directing off and up, yes up a path. This one took us past the Chapelle de la Madelaine which is thought to have been a grotto originally but then was developed into a chapel in the 17th century. It wasn't open but we could peer in a little.

Our next destination was the hamlet of Escluzels and once again pretty signage showing the way.  There was a fountain there to refill our bottles. The French are so good at supplying these and it's comforting to know that running out of much needed water is quite difficult.

From Montaure further on we could see back to Rochegude and there was what looked like an instrument of torture but I'm assured was for strapping the oxen etc to so that could be shod.

From this point we have about 5 miles to go and once again we consider a stop for a drink in Le Vernet de Sauges but again there is nowhere open. This is where snacks become so important so if you are reading this take note, I always encourage walking companions to have some snacks. Nuts, dried fruits and small sugar shots are ideal and water of course.

Some interesting things to photo graph in this area.

The next bit was probably the most boring of the day as we had to road walk for a fair distance and felt as if we were going far further than we had to. I think we were both a little concerned that we'd made a mistake like the day before.....

 Thank fully the sun and blue skies stayed with us and when we started to go down we were back on track and we had sculptures again including that of La Bête du Gévaudan - Saugues. 

The Beast of Gevaudan is , according to what I'm told, an animal responsible for a series of attacks against humans which occurred between June 30th 1764 and June 19th 1767  These attacks, often fatal, numbered between 88 and 124 and took place mainly in the north of the old country of Gevaudan which is roughly the current Department of Lozere.





The "Beast of Gevaudan" was apparently likened to a wolf, an exotic pet and even a werewolf.

A bit of excitement here but good to know all this happened many years ago.

This is the view from the hillside looking down on Saugues and good to know that  we are nearly there.

The first priority Teresa and I agree on after a walk is finding somewhere to have a beer and if possible finding somewhere in the sun so we bypassed the hotel to find our little bit of heaven. On this occasion it was a tabac in the square with a couple of seats in the sun just for us. How good to take the rucksack off, relax and sip that wonderful golden nectar.

As we sat and discussed the day we were able to wave at some of the others doing the same walk that we'd met along the way. There were the three men of seemingly varying levels of fitness who we'd seen on day one, the German couple who I think we'd seen at some point every day and the two women who were staying in the same hotel.

Often little more that a wave, a smile and a 'hi' is exchanged but it's the acknowledgement that we are all on this same journey that's very apparent and therefore the understanding of what we are experiencing.

Two beers later, well too tempting to resist and we head to the hotel for a hot shower and a wonderful meal... and a great night's sleep.

Back track dear friends to Oct 2008

The symbol of the Camino

October 3rd 2008

It's rather embarrassing that as Teresa and I pack and plan for section 4 of the Camino that my photos and updates of the whole journey are no further than part of Day 1. It's always been my intention to get it up to date and preferably before we start section 4 but there's loads of work, time is tight etc,

However this morning with a great plan of work ahead, my Thunderbird has crashed and has a 'Can Not Do' attitude. I could scream and shout, I could get depressed or I could look at this as a gift and take the opportunity to update the Camino trip and share with you our experiences and photos.

Are you ready?

Day 1 on Oct 3rd 2008 and Teresa and I are getting into the swing of the Camino. We're sussing out the signage which is magnificent, so good in fact that I can put the book away and enjoy the walk knowing that there will be frequent signs. How lovely is that?

This is the land of the lentils, go look in your store cupboard, have you any Puy lentils?

Below is some information about the church of St Christophe. Written in English, I found it really useful and really added to my understanding of the whole history. The church itself is below.

 

I love this photo of Teresa as she enjoys a rest in the sun and reads up on where we are heading next. That wonderful tree was made for just an occasion like this, giving shade from the sun at this time, but I'm sure at others, shelter from rain.

We were only 3 kms into our journey here but taking our time drinking in the whole experience and wanting to make sure that we didn't go wrong.

The next church we would come across would be La Chapelle Saint Roch, a 13th century Romanesque chapel dedicated to the patron saint of pilgrims. It's lovely to step inside there chapels and churches, to feel the history and also to enjoy the peace and calm that is always there.

Chapelle  Saint Roch

Why is it that when you have decided that you want lunch that where you are aiming for seems to get further and further away? At this time too, the scenery became less inspiring and the wind was chilled.

We were heading for Montbonnet, still when we did get there the Croques Monsieur were fabulous and we had the place to ourselves. Great food of the country and very satisfying.

When we came out it had been raining but was now dry, what timing and still dry the way was up and along more interesting pathways, I was loving this. Then we had hailstones, noisy and unexpected and it only early October. Of well, ensures you take nothing for granted.

We had a walk through wonderful woodland where we got very hot. It's shade was very welcome and as you can see in places it was so shaded that muddy areas had never really dried out.

Part of the woodland was commercially managed as you can see below, all the trees cut and sorted ready to be transported further.

When we emerged it was into an open area with an amazingly deep and wide valley ahead. A wind farm appeared over to our left, 5 large turbines and I learned that Teresa loved them as much as I did. For me they are gentle giants moving across the landscape and looking after us and much preferred to a nuclear power station.

We walked down into Le Chier and I noticed a path to Didier d' Allier, that was to come back and haunt us!!!

Towards the end of the day as we walked through wonderful woodland, the scenery is stunning we met up with the German guy and walked into St Privat D'Allier with him. En route, we passed a house which would have been an old mill house set in a shady spot beside the river.

It felt great to have completed day one so we sat down on a wall to eat and apple and work out where our hotel was. We were also contemplating where we should go for that well deserved beer.


Sadly, we discovered that we were not staying in St Privat but a hamlet called La Grangette on the other side of St Didier. Not amused we set off on the road and discussed the inefficiency of UTracks who stated that our destination was St Privat. If we'd know that we would have taken that path!

4.5 k along a road when you think you've finished is not fun and as it was it zigzagged round the valley.  We did find interesting things to cheer us up though, what do you make of the boots? Could be an interesting story there.

At the road down to St Didier we were confused further as to whether we should go down into the village or follow the main road. another mistake and we took the village route. After wandering around we asked some people and with messages and directions about sheep and chapels we headed down a grassy track. The house by the chapel was shut up so we turned, retraced steps again and finally after walking up a steep slope and emerging onto the main road, we found a Chambres des Hotes called La Grangette .... but how were we to know?

 Our hosts were terrific, they were sheep shearers and we had rather a surreal dinner being invited to a dinner party with 6 others. Thankfully Teresa's french is superb so she translated for me. It was not at all the more formal dinner I associate with the French but full of laughter, bawdy jokes and plenty of wine. The food, all home made was stunning and included an elderflower apperitif and some dust mite cheese, yes, Teresa and I tried that.

The blip before the start.

Teresa is off in the Peak District doing a sponsored walk but is not well so is walking the shorter as opposed to longer route, I know she'll be disappointed.

I went over on my foot yesterday and am keeping my fingers crossed that the discomfort doesn't develop further. I have a 7/8 mile walk tomorrow to try it out on.

We're off on Thursday and I've just been familiarising myself with the section we're about to walk - Cahors to Lectoure, I got a little shock to realise that the first day is 19.4 miles, that will be an early start. It then continues with day two being 16, then a short day of just under 9 miles when we get to Moissac which is always lovely as we have time to explore. Then it's 12 and finally 20!!

Can honestly say that we've not done the training for this one so fingers crossed that we will cope. We can do it and the cameraderie and scenery will see us through as well as the stretching after!!

Will take loads of fantastic photos ad look forward to sharing our stories.

9 days and counting.....

All the information has now arrived, luggage tags, vouchers for hotels which led me to seek them all out on the internet to get an idea of location and how they look, topguide etc.

Had a lovely email from my wonderful walking companion Teresa -

Thanks H. I am almost beside myself with anticipation. 

 

I may have a peek on-line at the stopping places. I can just see us walking along that bridge in Cahors.

 

Love T XXX

 

.....and Teresa has a two day walk in the Peak District to do before she gets to France. I have an Athena Angels training walk next Sunday. All that will get us in the mood and warmed up.

 

 

Only two weeks to go!!

Two weeks tomorrow and Teresa and I will be off to do the next section of the Camino and we'll be spending a night and day in Toulouse en route.

This morning I received an email from the wonderful Ann from World Walks who is organising it all for us letting me know that she'll be putting the hotel vouchers in the post and also checking what book she has already sent us. It's making it all very real and I for one am getting very excited.

Camino, here we come.

Fully paid up and rearing to go.

Lay awake in bed last night realising that we're now fully paid up for our trip and it's only 5 and a half weeks till we go!!! Rather exciting.

We are both carrying a couple of injuries though so it's going to be thorough work on those knees for both of us, still a little on Teresa's shoulder and management of my arch issue. Oh joy.

No doubt we'll be fine though.

A necessary piece of kit.

On a walking trip, you would be forgiven for thinking that the most necessary piece of kit would be your walking boots/shoes and you would be right, but as I've discovered, when flying especially on a low cost carrier a bag that holds your poles is up there just as important unless you want to spend as much extra money as on a pair of skis or a set of golf clubs!

The first time Teresa and I headed off to walk the Camino, transporting our poles wasn't a problem. I attached mine to my rucksack and no one queried it. We were travelling by Eurostar and the French trains. Therefore when we flew by Ryanair, I never gave it a thought until the night before when I suddenly panicked and realised that the baggage I'd packed just couldn't accommodate the poles. A call to Teresa revealed that she too had been in ignorant bliss and on being made aware realised that she had no baggage, apart from a mega case that would suit.

A quick rummage in the attic and a complete repack meant that I could accommodate both sets and off we went. Last year we did the same. No real problem except that my bag is of the carry variety with no wheels so not ideal. A few months ago Teresa bought a new case and today I followed so I'm now the proud owner of a soft shell lilac Kipling bag and I love it. I'd taken all the measurements  with me and as this one was a big reduction (and I've always wanted a Kipling bag) it was the ideal choice. A red Esprit bag was a close contender but it was bigger and therefore likely to tempt me into packing too much.

The great thing is that I don't have to wait till May, I can try it out in about 10 days when I head off for 4 days walking in Mallorca. Can't wait.