The day we walked from Nasbinals to St Chely d'Aubrac

September 30th 2009

This was one of the views from our bedroom window, just look at those wonderful overlapping tiles.

After breakfast and having bought quiches from the local shop, we stopped to visit the11th century Romanesque church built in local sone and style. There is a monument, with a pair of crutches at its base, in the church to Pierre Brioude a 19th century ‘bonesetter’ and manipulator of joints who is said to have treated over 10,000 people a year. I’m sure many pilgrims will have needed his skills. It’s rather like having my friend Ivana on hand.

Shame I'n in the shade as opposed to the sun but just proof that I was there.

Just on the outskirts of Nasbinals, our turn off the road took us into wonderful beech woods and we walked through a tunnel of these until the track opened up and hedges took the place of the trees. It was time to stop and strip off the top layer here, it never takes long.

Gravel paths, rowan trees, small streams, all these wonderful aspects of the walk just add to the glory and enjoyment of the day.

We were now back on the Aubrac Plateau and for this we’d made sure we had our sunscreen, hats and plenty of water as shade is at a minimum. Often when I can see miles ahead I get bored but somehow not on this plateau, I was loving this open space and spotting things of interest like the Buron de Ginestouse Bas which is a bothy used during the summer months by the shepherds as they spent the time up on the plateau not returning to the valleys until the autumn.

Above us on our right we could see the Blunt, cone shaped hill called Trois Eveques marking the borders of the departments of Cantal, Lozere and Aveyron as well as the old regions of Aveyron, the Aubrac and Midi-Pyrenees. Quite a lot happening in this small place then.

I mentioned signage in the past and I love the inventiveness of those responsible for this aspect of the Camino, just had to get Teresa to pose beside this one. Anyone have any idea where the path has gone?

Our descent from here gave us a view over to our right of the ‘Village de Vacances Royal Aubrac’ which used to be a sanatorium, a sculpture of the Virgin Mary and Aubrac itself.

As we walked down here I did recognise it from the car journey on our way from the airport. At the bottom of this hill the road turns a corner and I remember looking up not realising of course that this was the way we'd come. It's really rather interesting when it all comes together in this way

On to Aubrac in a moment but one of the sculptures or pieces of artwork inspired me to get a little carried away and below are a number of the photos I took.

I wonder if we can get a coffee there, I recall asking?

Well what a coffee and more. Do you remember me mentioning the taxi driver telling us about the tarts? Well as we approached the village I suddenly recognised it and this is the tart. Now how could you resist?

We were all set just to have coffee but having gone to find the loo, Teresa returned saying we just had to have some tart so we did but only one piece between us. As you san see it was huge and we took over half and hour and two cups of coffee so leisurely work our way through this masterpiece. It was wonderful and  the whole setting just added to us plus at least we felt we’d earned it.

The food throughout the restaurant looked fabulous and I took a mental not to bring Alan her sometime to dine on one of those times when we can take off and drive through France.

Before leaving we did the historic bit. This village was founded by a Flemish Knight who was attacked by bandits on his way to Santiago and who almost died here in a storm on his return journey. We visited the Church of Notre Dame des Pauvres, see the photo, which is all remains of the monastery that used to be here. We also visited the botanical garden, the new visitor centre and took photos of the Tour des Anglais.

In this village there is a great fete every year on the penultimate weekend in May. It's called the fête de la transhumance which is an ancient tradition that almost died out but was resurrected 30 or so years ago.

Hundreds of cows and thousands of people descend to celebrate the movement of the cows up to their  verdant pastures, studded with wild flowers and crossed by clear streams. The herds are decked with headdresses of holly and wild flowers and hung with cowbells and are driven up from the village until the Autumn. It's something I wish we could see but we did get a flavour from looking at some of the photos.

On the outskirts of the village we turned off to our left passing a tall wooden cross and walked downhill on an uneven track. It was good to be moving again and walking off some of that terrific tart. Lunch was going to have to be a long way away if at all!!

Along this way we met a large group of walkers and continued to meet them off and on for the rest of this section of the camino. One of the men seemed to have got separated from the rest of the group and we got talking to him. He’d been beset with blisters and was in some pain as he hobbled along. He was in good spirits though.

We came across some great wildlife this time like the lizard and this huge bug.

Not sure what that bug is so open to advice but I wouldn't like to get on the wrong side of it.

Again we got to St Chely d'Aubrac in time to enjoy that beer and once showered and changed, we went for a wander round the town and visited the local tourist office which had some great information and photos. Outside was a wonderful metal sculpture of the scallop shell adorned below with vibrant red geraniums.

An experience to get back on the Camino

September 28th 2009

It was challenging and confusing trying to organise train travel to and from France for this stage of the Camino so after much deliberation, we flew from Stansted to Rodez from where we’d been told we’d be able to get a taxi. It was by far the most direct, the most time efficient and train compared to flight, the cheapest. The taxi factor was a cause for financial concern though but what’s the option?

So far so good and happily 3 taxi drivers all at the airport when we arrived. Not quite so good when they started questioning where we were going and looking at maps to work out how to get there. It made me realise just how localised a lot of these communities are. Our journey was to take an hour/hour and a half and was only just into the next department  but that was like a world away and clearly unfamiliar territory for these drivers.


Still we got the deal sorted and set off Teresa chatting away to our driver in her fluent French, me just enjoying looking out the window.

We by passed some interesting looking places en route and soon I was aware we were on a bit of a detour. Our driver stopped the car and took us to the fenced off edge of the Canyon de Bozouls which is a stunning whole in the ground stretching down - WOW! We just wouldn’t have seen this without him, what a bonus.

About 20 minutes later still buzzing, the bonus was wiped away when the car started to slow and juddered to a halt, he’d only run out of petrol. Good job we were on our way from the plane and not to it.

He managed to pull the car onto some waste ground and we wandered around in the sunshine as he called for help. Half an hour later we were on our way again, looking forward to arriving in the familiar town of Aumont-Aubrac.

This driver was less chatty but on our way through one particular village he commented on a restaurant doing the most fantastic Myrtile tartes which we should try out. Not sure how we were going to manage that but food info is always logged so we thanked him for this insight.

The hotel in Aumont-Aubrac is not the most stunning and our room, although having a large terrace outside was dull and gloomy but dinner was surprisingly good and breakfast the next morning very satisfying. Both meals were a great opportunity to people watch.

September 29th 2009

Such excitement and anticipation as we set off, we felt like experienced Camino trekkers this time and no longer the novices of a year ago.

Our first destination was La Chaze du Peyre about 4.5 kms away and of course we had to get under the motorway ( a route I realised that I’d driven a number of times heading to the south from our French house) and  climb up, some things never change.

At the tiny Chapelle de Bastide we stopped to visit, what a pretty place and the sunshine coming through the round stained glass window, bathed the place in wonderful life. It always amazes me how calm and quiet it in inside these churches when outside there is often a main road.
 

We met a group of people here and I think some of them were our breakfast companions, we were also to overtake them and be over taken on many occasions as the day continued. The next time being at Les Quatre Chemins (the four paths) where we stopped at this rather eccentric place to have a drink and relax in the sun.

Forest tracks and fenced tracks through a grassy plateau followed and then a walled lane and everywhere the most exquisite berries and little streams that meandered through the moorland, brownish in colour but also clear if that makes any sense. 

We also saw the most beautiful cattle I’ve ever seen.  The Aubrac cattle with their gentle faces, the huge brown eyes and tan coats. We both fell in love with them. They are a very old French breed  used for beef and are a tough breed with high resistance to disease, high longevity and easy calving. Though primarily a beef breed, the milk from Aubrac cattle is also used to make traditional Laguiole cheese which takes its name from the little village of Laguoile It is said to have been invented at a monastery in the mountains of Aubrac in the 19th century. 

On this section of the walk, we also came across so many beautiful crosses with many so different from those found before. Here’s a selection of them and you can see that some are fairly new.

Having done 15.5 kms of the 27 for today we settled down for a picnic lunch, again the food is so good when eaten in the open and also when you are feasting on the food of the country and of the time of year. We were feasting on freshly made bread bought that morning and local fruit and cheese although not the Laguoile mentioned above. After a good break it was the customary stretches to ease those muscles and also protect from the aches and pains of the following day.

In this photo you can see the 'Stretch  Queen' Teresa, putting me though my paces.

At Finieyrols we came across this wonderful memorial to Louis Dalle who was born here on April 27th 1922. He came from a family of 15 children of which 7 were to become priests or play a role in religious life.

In 1947 he went to Peru as a missionary a position he held until his death in 1982.

Boulders are what the next section of the day sums up for me as our way took us through more grassy plateau this time strewn with large, and sometimes huge, boulders. This was the path across the Aubrac plateau and here I am at the top at the Roc des Loups 1273 m up.

From here we followed the Grande Draille which is a historic drove road. Here, at least we were going down and it was good to find some shade after the openess of the plateau.

At Rieutort d’Aubrac we had been hoping for somewhere to stop but no facilities here and the road from here was long and fairly boring bringing no mystery or interest. We were delighted then to see the Pont de Marchastel over the River Bes getting closer and what a lovely river.

We stopped to rest here, take on some water and have a snack of nuts and dried fruit and also to check the guidebook and see what we should notice and how far there was still to go. It seemed a long afternoon by this time but I think that's quite characteristic of the first day back on the trail.

Often the last bit is the longest and this was the sight we’d been longing to see as the hours passed.

Here was Nasbinals in the hollow and first stop was, of course, the tabac across the road from the hotel and a beer in the sun to celebrate our achievement and recognise the joy of being back on the Camino again. 

Exhausted and excited

Well it's been a very productive day but not at all what I had planned which just goes to show that the best laid plans etc.

I'm delighted to have, at last, documented the first stage of the Camino for Teresa and me. It's long overdue but I think it looks great and it has definitely got me so excited about setting out again on Thursday. I have a really busy two days before then so whether I get more written or not about sections two and three will have to be seen.

I'm off now for a good night's sleep and dreams of that wonderful French countryside bathed in sunshine and that stunning scenery.

Anyone sen my journal capturing section 2?

Final Day of this stage as we head to Aumont-Aubrac

October 6th 2008

An amusing breakfast this morning as this is very much a rural stop and run by a family so the gentleman overseeing breakfast this morning didn't seem to be in his most comfortable environment. Still there was plenty of choice and we left feeling well fuelled for the day ahead.

Our last day had a cloudier start which thankfully made it warmer. No headbands, gloves or hats needed this morning. We head up the track to join the path, somehow it’s a much shorter walk than at the end of yesterday and take a photo to mark the joining with the Camino again. From there we walk down to St Alban and Teresa takes an opportunity to stretch,  it feels weird that this is the last day and I can’t believe that it’s all gone so quickly.

Well just over 13 miles ahead of us today so let’s get on with it and revel in this wonderful weather and magnificent scenery. It wasn’t long before we are down to one layer, this day is turning in to a great one.

We stepped out through the woods and down to the little hamlet of Rouget named because of the red stone in the area. Here also the mainly red-tile roofs characteristic of the area and mentioned before change to grey slate.

An information point here gives us more information about the Camino, always worth taking time to read up a little on things.

From there it was on down to St Alban itself which was all closed up for some reason. Not even the locals seemed to know why.

Noticed a number of carved sculptures here too, like the one above, there’s clearly a story here.

No chance to buy anything for lunch so when we saw a tabac open we decided we should take advantage and think through our plans. The hot chocolate was good and the two women also on the route joined us there. Outside we met the German couple confused like us about this closure.

Before leaving St Alban we decided to visit the church which is the romanesque church of St Alban. There was a wonderful modern stained glass window which really stood out. While standing in the aisle of the church I decided to do a lunge which to this day Teresa remembers, she thought I’d suddenly turned really religious, we still laugh about it.

Down to short sleeves now, the heat was building, what fab weather to finish this section in style.

There are so many different signs and everytime I think there can't possibly be a different one there is. I've probably photographed them all by now but rest assured I'm not about to display them.


This one is pretty in it's simplicity and does all it needs to do having an arrow, the red and white stripe, GR65 and for good measure the scallop shell. I think you can probably begin to see what I mean about it being hard to get lost as the signage is so clear.

From here the path becomes a broad gravel one and at this point the two women who we'd had hot chocolate with pass us, it may be the last time we see them so we are keen to speak and utter a farewell.


They stride out and we walked through some wonderful woods marvelling at the views, the scenery and the colour against the sky.

At the top of the gravel path we stop to look at one of the tall stone crosses and also to zip off the legs of our walking trousers allowing us to walk in shorts. Here we meet the German couple again and stop to take some photos of each other. It's the kind of thing you do on the last day.

We ambled along chatting and soaking up the atmosphere, delighted at how well we were doing and enjoying the sun.

As Teresa and I walked further there was a rustle in the undergrowth and a red squirrel emerged pine cone in in his mouth. It stopped and then shot off wanting to put as much space between us and it as possible.This was a first of a number of interesting sights in the woods that day.

Not long after we came across this fun metal mask, perhaps it was the beast.

We also came across a well built shelter which really did look as if it was being used - by who I wonder?  It looks rather cosy.

Below are more photos taken on our last day, mot don't really need any explanation.

As lunch time approached we found out a good rock outcrop for a picnic lunch, thank goodness for the apples from this morning and then we pooled the rest of our resources and managed to have a decent lunch and all this in the sunshine too. It was good to have our batteries recharged and to feel energised as after lunch it was, yes you got it - up, up and up again so much so that my legs wanted to go on strike. I think it was something to do with knowing it was the last day.

When we reached the top I was so glad to see a road, now that’s a first and we knew that from here it was only a few kilometers to Aumont Aubrac and the end of the walk.


We only had a kilometer of this and then we could fork off right down a shady walled lane where on a tree we found this prayer for all pilgrims and a scallop shell.

It was here also that we caught our last sight of our lovely German couple as they walked ahead in the sunshine.




The first thing we wanted was a beer in the sun but no where did that so we found the hotel then sorted a taxi and returned to the hotel where we met up with those 3 lovely men from day one who still had another day to go.

They told us that there’d be a train strike tomorrow. Couldn’t find anything on the net so we were feeling pretty confident.

To celebrate we had a couple of beers, a croque monsieur and then a little visit to the church which was rather dark but again (like the church in St Alban) had wonderful modern stained glass windows.
 

Getting a taxi back to Le Puy was interesting and we were able to relive parts of our journey along the route. Hard to believe that we walked all that way. We were pretty tired and the beer probably added to it so we yawned our heads ff and all thoughts of going out on the town evaporated. Instead we changed and choose to have dinner in the hotel restaurant where we’d eaten on our first night, seems like a lifetime away now.

Next morning we sat at breakfast and watched a group of women who were clearly starting the Camino that day. We felt like experienced pilgrims by now and although looking forward to getting home we also felt a little sad to be leaving this all behind. Before checking out we wandered up through the town to buy some local products of cheese, wine etc to take home.

Back at Le Puy station, relaxed and feeling very pleased with ourselves and planning the celebratory glass of champagne on Eurostar as well as the next stage...wonder when that will be?