Day 3 St Chely - Espalion, 22 km/13.75 miles

October 1st 2009

After breakfast we walked down through St Chely to the bridge where we took some photos and then up the road festooned with signs and from where we could look back towards the town slowly being enveloped in the morning sunlight. We were now on both the GR65 and GR6 as they share the same route as far as Figeac.


The road walking didn’t last too long and then we were into woodland mainly of chestnut trees this time, their fruit littering the paths. As the photos show, we had some beech woods too and lovely fungi.

On this particular day the walking was sublime and although there were a few hamlets, we didn't pass through anywhere of note and were able to walk through the best of wonderful rural french countryside more or less on our own and undisturbed. How lucky were we as how often in life do you get the time and space that allows this. I know that's why my time on the Camino is so important and why I come back feeling so good.

One of the many taps/fountains provided for walkers, a godsend.

We stopped among the shade of the trees for lunch but in a position also ensuring us a wonderful out look and ate the quiches we’d bought the day previously but that we’d been too full for after our tart.  When walking we do try to leave time not just to eat but also to relax and it's an opportunity to check the guidebook and see where we've been and where we are heading next. As we sat, some of the large group passed us here and as usual nods of camaraderie were exchanged, there is a real feel of being part of a community doing this walk.

Confusion on the Camino is very rare but here we did get a little lost as it was unclear where we should be going and in some places there were obstacles across the path. After a bit of tooing and froing, we decided to press on and we came out on a lane where a house on the side of the road clearly welcomed walkers.

We joined some others already there and ordered cool drinks enjoying the exquisite views. The loo had one of the best views, see the next photo, even though you had to pay to use it. I remember Teresa getting involved in a discussion here about the film Julie and Julia, starring Meryl Streep.

Our goal for today was Espalion but one of the places I remember with most fondness is Saint Come d’Olt (Olt is the old name for the River Lot, one of France’s best known rivers). This town looked wonderful as we approached and I remembered bypassing it on our journey from the airport because of the twisted spire of the church of St Come and St Damien.

This beautiful medieval town has few modern buildings and the church is 16th century. There is also the 10th century Chapelle des Penitents, formerly a pilgrim hospital dedicated to St James.

The Hotel de Ville was once a 14th century chateaux and there's a wonderful gothic bridge over which we had to walk.

As you will see from the photos I was rather bowled over by this place so please excuse the number of photos I've included. I do have to tell you that there were loads that I left out.

The next few are taken around the church, starting with this one of me outside the church door, just look at the wonderful carvings and the craftmanship. No longer do we get that.

Inside, and I'll include at least one of these later, were some wonderful modern stained glass windows.

I have been amazed at the number of very ancient churches we've visited that have very modern windows, much more so than in the United Kingdom.

One of the photos shows clearly the twist in the spire and I've done a little research into this wondering what the story was. Nothing too exciting I'm afraid this was a deliberate design just like that of the church in Chesterfield in England although there is a story told of that one.

Outside the church made up of the cobbles is a wonderful depiction of the scallop shell.

And would you mess with this woman?

This is the wonderful view of St Come d'Olt as you stand on the bridge over the River Lot It was on this bridge that we met one of the large walking group we'd met before, this time the lovely gentleman who'd had the blisters. His feet were much better now and we talked about the route we'd take next. He was staying in St Come d'Olt but we figured that we'd probably meet again.

After a bit of deliberation, Teresa and I decided to forgo the high route and instead follow the route along the river. The Lot rises in the Cevennes and flows through Quercy joining the Garonne near Aiguillon. It's  481 kilometres (299 mi) long and gives  its name to the Lot department.

I love this photo of it as it slowly flows through the countryside and the colours, especially of the plants in the foreground is beautiful.

As we walked along the river I took the sweet corn stored and this wonderful gate into a garden.

As we approached Espalion along the river one of the first things we saw was the sight of the two bridges. The Pilgrim Bridge also called the Pont Vieux is one of the most unusual medieval bridges in France and has UNESCO World Heritage status.

In the middle of the 10th century, because of an increase in traffic, probably because of the Compostela pilgrimage, the de Calmontsbarbican.  Then between 1841 and 1846, a second bridge was built known as the Pont Neuf. It was listed in 1888.

On one bank of the bridge these wonderful medieval houses can be seen.

It was all quite a site and Teresa and I quite tired by now wandered through Espalion looking for our hotel. Thankfully I'd had a look for it on the web so had some idea of it's direction and it's look. We were shown to our room and then, as is customary, went in search of that sunny spot to celebrate the day's walk with a beer. It wasn't the prettiest spot as it was right on roadside and we both agreed that in London there's no way we would have done this but when in Rome.... and the beer was great.

It was a lovely hotel with wonderful food and I remember vividly the choice of about 10 deserts and this is a 2 star hotel!

The day we walked from Nasbinals to St Chely d'Aubrac

September 30th 2009

This was one of the views from our bedroom window, just look at those wonderful overlapping tiles.

After breakfast and having bought quiches from the local shop, we stopped to visit the11th century Romanesque church built in local sone and style. There is a monument, with a pair of crutches at its base, in the church to Pierre Brioude a 19th century ‘bonesetter’ and manipulator of joints who is said to have treated over 10,000 people a year. I’m sure many pilgrims will have needed his skills. It’s rather like having my friend Ivana on hand.

Shame I'n in the shade as opposed to the sun but just proof that I was there.

Just on the outskirts of Nasbinals, our turn off the road took us into wonderful beech woods and we walked through a tunnel of these until the track opened up and hedges took the place of the trees. It was time to stop and strip off the top layer here, it never takes long.

Gravel paths, rowan trees, small streams, all these wonderful aspects of the walk just add to the glory and enjoyment of the day.

We were now back on the Aubrac Plateau and for this we’d made sure we had our sunscreen, hats and plenty of water as shade is at a minimum. Often when I can see miles ahead I get bored but somehow not on this plateau, I was loving this open space and spotting things of interest like the Buron de Ginestouse Bas which is a bothy used during the summer months by the shepherds as they spent the time up on the plateau not returning to the valleys until the autumn.

Above us on our right we could see the Blunt, cone shaped hill called Trois Eveques marking the borders of the departments of Cantal, Lozere and Aveyron as well as the old regions of Aveyron, the Aubrac and Midi-Pyrenees. Quite a lot happening in this small place then.

I mentioned signage in the past and I love the inventiveness of those responsible for this aspect of the Camino, just had to get Teresa to pose beside this one. Anyone have any idea where the path has gone?

Our descent from here gave us a view over to our right of the ‘Village de Vacances Royal Aubrac’ which used to be a sanatorium, a sculpture of the Virgin Mary and Aubrac itself.

As we walked down here I did recognise it from the car journey on our way from the airport. At the bottom of this hill the road turns a corner and I remember looking up not realising of course that this was the way we'd come. It's really rather interesting when it all comes together in this way

On to Aubrac in a moment but one of the sculptures or pieces of artwork inspired me to get a little carried away and below are a number of the photos I took.

I wonder if we can get a coffee there, I recall asking?

Well what a coffee and more. Do you remember me mentioning the taxi driver telling us about the tarts? Well as we approached the village I suddenly recognised it and this is the tart. Now how could you resist?

We were all set just to have coffee but having gone to find the loo, Teresa returned saying we just had to have some tart so we did but only one piece between us. As you san see it was huge and we took over half and hour and two cups of coffee so leisurely work our way through this masterpiece. It was wonderful and  the whole setting just added to us plus at least we felt we’d earned it.

The food throughout the restaurant looked fabulous and I took a mental not to bring Alan her sometime to dine on one of those times when we can take off and drive through France.

Before leaving we did the historic bit. This village was founded by a Flemish Knight who was attacked by bandits on his way to Santiago and who almost died here in a storm on his return journey. We visited the Church of Notre Dame des Pauvres, see the photo, which is all remains of the monastery that used to be here. We also visited the botanical garden, the new visitor centre and took photos of the Tour des Anglais.

In this village there is a great fete every year on the penultimate weekend in May. It's called the fête de la transhumance which is an ancient tradition that almost died out but was resurrected 30 or so years ago.

Hundreds of cows and thousands of people descend to celebrate the movement of the cows up to their  verdant pastures, studded with wild flowers and crossed by clear streams. The herds are decked with headdresses of holly and wild flowers and hung with cowbells and are driven up from the village until the Autumn. It's something I wish we could see but we did get a flavour from looking at some of the photos.

On the outskirts of the village we turned off to our left passing a tall wooden cross and walked downhill on an uneven track. It was good to be moving again and walking off some of that terrific tart. Lunch was going to have to be a long way away if at all!!

Along this way we met a large group of walkers and continued to meet them off and on for the rest of this section of the camino. One of the men seemed to have got separated from the rest of the group and we got talking to him. He’d been beset with blisters and was in some pain as he hobbled along. He was in good spirits though.

We came across some great wildlife this time like the lizard and this huge bug.

Not sure what that bug is so open to advice but I wouldn't like to get on the wrong side of it.

Again we got to St Chely d'Aubrac in time to enjoy that beer and once showered and changed, we went for a wander round the town and visited the local tourist office which had some great information and photos. Outside was a wonderful metal sculpture of the scallop shell adorned below with vibrant red geraniums.

An experience to get back on the Camino

September 28th 2009

It was challenging and confusing trying to organise train travel to and from France for this stage of the Camino so after much deliberation, we flew from Stansted to Rodez from where we’d been told we’d be able to get a taxi. It was by far the most direct, the most time efficient and train compared to flight, the cheapest. The taxi factor was a cause for financial concern though but what’s the option?

So far so good and happily 3 taxi drivers all at the airport when we arrived. Not quite so good when they started questioning where we were going and looking at maps to work out how to get there. It made me realise just how localised a lot of these communities are. Our journey was to take an hour/hour and a half and was only just into the next department  but that was like a world away and clearly unfamiliar territory for these drivers.


Still we got the deal sorted and set off Teresa chatting away to our driver in her fluent French, me just enjoying looking out the window.

We by passed some interesting looking places en route and soon I was aware we were on a bit of a detour. Our driver stopped the car and took us to the fenced off edge of the Canyon de Bozouls which is a stunning whole in the ground stretching down - WOW! We just wouldn’t have seen this without him, what a bonus.

About 20 minutes later still buzzing, the bonus was wiped away when the car started to slow and juddered to a halt, he’d only run out of petrol. Good job we were on our way from the plane and not to it.

He managed to pull the car onto some waste ground and we wandered around in the sunshine as he called for help. Half an hour later we were on our way again, looking forward to arriving in the familiar town of Aumont-Aubrac.

This driver was less chatty but on our way through one particular village he commented on a restaurant doing the most fantastic Myrtile tartes which we should try out. Not sure how we were going to manage that but food info is always logged so we thanked him for this insight.

The hotel in Aumont-Aubrac is not the most stunning and our room, although having a large terrace outside was dull and gloomy but dinner was surprisingly good and breakfast the next morning very satisfying. Both meals were a great opportunity to people watch.

September 29th 2009

Such excitement and anticipation as we set off, we felt like experienced Camino trekkers this time and no longer the novices of a year ago.

Our first destination was La Chaze du Peyre about 4.5 kms away and of course we had to get under the motorway ( a route I realised that I’d driven a number of times heading to the south from our French house) and  climb up, some things never change.

At the tiny Chapelle de Bastide we stopped to visit, what a pretty place and the sunshine coming through the round stained glass window, bathed the place in wonderful life. It always amazes me how calm and quiet it in inside these churches when outside there is often a main road.
 

We met a group of people here and I think some of them were our breakfast companions, we were also to overtake them and be over taken on many occasions as the day continued. The next time being at Les Quatre Chemins (the four paths) where we stopped at this rather eccentric place to have a drink and relax in the sun.

Forest tracks and fenced tracks through a grassy plateau followed and then a walled lane and everywhere the most exquisite berries and little streams that meandered through the moorland, brownish in colour but also clear if that makes any sense. 

We also saw the most beautiful cattle I’ve ever seen.  The Aubrac cattle with their gentle faces, the huge brown eyes and tan coats. We both fell in love with them. They are a very old French breed  used for beef and are a tough breed with high resistance to disease, high longevity and easy calving. Though primarily a beef breed, the milk from Aubrac cattle is also used to make traditional Laguiole cheese which takes its name from the little village of Laguoile It is said to have been invented at a monastery in the mountains of Aubrac in the 19th century. 

On this section of the walk, we also came across so many beautiful crosses with many so different from those found before. Here’s a selection of them and you can see that some are fairly new.

Having done 15.5 kms of the 27 for today we settled down for a picnic lunch, again the food is so good when eaten in the open and also when you are feasting on the food of the country and of the time of year. We were feasting on freshly made bread bought that morning and local fruit and cheese although not the Laguoile mentioned above. After a good break it was the customary stretches to ease those muscles and also protect from the aches and pains of the following day.

In this photo you can see the 'Stretch  Queen' Teresa, putting me though my paces.

At Finieyrols we came across this wonderful memorial to Louis Dalle who was born here on April 27th 1922. He came from a family of 15 children of which 7 were to become priests or play a role in religious life.

In 1947 he went to Peru as a missionary a position he held until his death in 1982.

Boulders are what the next section of the day sums up for me as our way took us through more grassy plateau this time strewn with large, and sometimes huge, boulders. This was the path across the Aubrac plateau and here I am at the top at the Roc des Loups 1273 m up.

From here we followed the Grande Draille which is a historic drove road. Here, at least we were going down and it was good to find some shade after the openess of the plateau.

At Rieutort d’Aubrac we had been hoping for somewhere to stop but no facilities here and the road from here was long and fairly boring bringing no mystery or interest. We were delighted then to see the Pont de Marchastel over the River Bes getting closer and what a lovely river.

We stopped to rest here, take on some water and have a snack of nuts and dried fruit and also to check the guidebook and see what we should notice and how far there was still to go. It seemed a long afternoon by this time but I think that's quite characteristic of the first day back on the trail.

Often the last bit is the longest and this was the sight we’d been longing to see as the hours passed.

Here was Nasbinals in the hollow and first stop was, of course, the tabac across the road from the hotel and a beer in the sun to celebrate our achievement and recognise the joy of being back on the Camino again. 

Exhausted and excited

Well it's been a very productive day but not at all what I had planned which just goes to show that the best laid plans etc.

I'm delighted to have, at last, documented the first stage of the Camino for Teresa and me. It's long overdue but I think it looks great and it has definitely got me so excited about setting out again on Thursday. I have a really busy two days before then so whether I get more written or not about sections two and three will have to be seen.

I'm off now for a good night's sleep and dreams of that wonderful French countryside bathed in sunshine and that stunning scenery.

Anyone sen my journal capturing section 2?