Day 1

The first part was all up hill, well the town is in a valley so no choice really. It was good to stop and look back from where we'd come and then to get onto the path.

This is one of the official signs of the St James' Way although every time we saw one the distance seemed to have changed very little. We thought the figure was how far we had to go but I wonder .... anyone shed any light on this? We've probably missed something very simple.

You will see examples of numerous signs as I tell the story but one thing is that the signage was fantastic and meant that you didn't have to spend your time with your nose stuck in the book or map so we could really enjoy the scenery.

At this sign we met a young German who had started the walk in Stuttgard, walked through Switzerland and planned to get to Santiago in December. I hope all is going well for you Gregor.

Just look at at the scenery and the light. The first part of the walk on this first morning was just so beautiful. The sun shone in a sky which was so blue and peppered in places with wonderful white clouds. In places there was still a great deal of green in the trees but in others the autumn colours were coming through and in this light the colours were sharp and stunning.

At this point above, we had just come off a tarred track onto terrain much stonier and with a deep brown/red hue to it. Today was through volcanic landscape which makes up this Massive Central area and as we climbed we could see the many 'puys' around.

Here are some of the signs I mentioned................

My Camino experience - part 1

My friend Mark is back in the States and although I'm sure he's delighted to be home, I guess he'll be missing being out in the air and having all that space to think. Sometimes it's not until you have it that you miss it when it's gone. I know I did and that was only after 4 days.

I haven't seen mark's photos yet but I do hope he sends some and then I'll share them with you.

Until then, I felt it was time to share a little of our story and sites on the Camino...Not sure how far I'll get as there is so much to tell.

We chose to start our walk in Le Puy, a wonderful Medieval town in Central France just south of Clermont Ferrand and the Massive Central. I have driven through this area before but never walked it and after the stunning scenery viewed from the train on the way here I was so looking forward to it.

If you return to the post of October 8th, you'll see a photo of Teresa and I full of anticipation and excitement at 8.30 a.m on the morning on October 3rd 2008.

If you start in Le Puy, you should start at the cathedral, so having sussed it out the night before that's exactly what we did and standing at the doorway looking down into the town gave us a very dramatic starting point and really summed up the vastness and greatness of what we were about to embark on. See what I mean.....



Yes, I know we weren't about to do it all in one go, that must be amazing, but we were staring something we'd both thought about doing for a long time.


Here's Teresa, full of energy and vigor heading up the narrow medieval streets to start the walk at the front of the cathedral so she can glimpse the view again.

The cathedral is stunning and well worth a visit anyhow even if you're not going to do the walk but when there.....

.....and here's Teresa again on the off.

Below is the route we were to take from Le Puy in the top right corner to Aumont-Aubrac at the lower left. We had 4 days.

The greatest party of my life - and Mark prepares to head off home to the USA

What a lovely surprise to get another blog posting from Mark and a great summary of what can only be an undescribable experience.


Posted: 12 Oct 2008 03:01 PM CDT
Sunday Night

Well, I am back in the real world. Was it ever strange to get in a taxi and head to the airport in Santiago. I felt like I was flying and hadn´t left the ground yet. I flew to Madrid and checked into a hotel. I have a 3:30 a.m. wakeup call and then shuttle to the airport. 

It´s hard to describe Saturday night, but will do the best I can. I have been fortunate to attend some wonderful events and parties over the course of my life and nothing compares to the experience last night. Imagine 17 people around a dinner table...from Germany, Spain, Ireland, England, Japan, Korea, France, Australia, Italy, Canada, Brazil and of course, me from the United States. Now, add the fact that each one has just completed a 500 mile walk and most-likely the greatest, if not one of the top 2 or 3 accomplishments in their life. The laughing, the singing, the hugging, the cheering, the toasting, and the roasting never seemed to stop. The youngest was Miyu from Japan at 22 and the oldest was Lucas, 72 from Italy who had just walked the Camino for the fifth time. He did not have an ounce of fat on him, could not speak a word of English and his singing almost stopped the world for a moment it was so beautiful. When they pointed at me to sing, all I could think of was..."For he´s a jolly good fellow...", and I dedicated the moment to him. The table went wild. Later that night he gave me a big bear hug and I could not understand a word he said. But, I understood how he felt. Then after three hours, around midnight we headed down a cobblestone street and met up with about 15 more Pilgrims and the celebration went until about 3:00 a.m. this morning. 

I slept until 10 and then headed for the Cathedral. There were two men I hadn´t seen yet for sometime and time was running out. I had dinner with an older man from Berlin on day two and then saw him in Leon on/about day 22. His name was Willie, about 62, and he had given me some interesting perspectives on the Wall and leaders Carter, Reagan and Gorbachev. I desperately hoped to see him and get his picture. I was walking down the street and there he was coming towards me. I couldn´t believe it. I got his picture and we went for coffee. Then after the Mass and people seemed to be disappearing I sat on the steps in the square and hoped to see Inki from Korea. I hadn´t seen him for about 8 or 9 days. We started on day one together and he had stopped me in the street in St. Jean´s Pied de Port and asked me for directions. Like I knew? We were both scared out of our minds. A couple of weeks later he shared with me how depressed he was at the beginning and how hard it was. I didn´t have a picture of him or his contact information. Not two minutes after I had about given up on seeing him, there he was. It was a wonderful reunion and he pulled out a special Korean bookmark he had saved for me thinking we would see each other again. His picture is the probably the one I will value most. He has a good heart, a gentle spirit and I learned a lot from him, even though we never spoke that much. 

I packed up what little belongings I had, enjoyed a meal with another angel, Pilar from Madrid. We shared a Galician feast of caldo galega, pulpo and paella. Pilar and I took a taxi to the airport and I bid her good-bye from the airport in Madrid. This Pilgrim´s on his way home, Compostela in hand, and ready for the next adventure, most-likely in South America...Brazil, Chile, or Argentina.

I will continue to share thoughts, ideas and photos over the next thirty days, including the only thing that really matters, when the time is right. Ultreia!
Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com


I envy Mark the fact that he has been able to tackle this in one go. Teresa and I do not have the time to do this, this time so we shall do it bit by bit and will love the experience but Mark's way is indeed the most challenging.

When we were walking last week, we met Gregor, a young German who was on the trail. He had started in his home town of Stuttgard and walked through Switzerland and now France. He was hoping to finish in Santiago in December. I think of him often and wonder where he now is. When we talked to him, he was stiull camping and there were some cold nights when we were away. God speed Gregor.

Talking about the Camino and Mark's last blogs

Met up with the East End Girls yesterday for our monthly walk and had about 6 new walkers. It was a great day and a great walk. I will post some new photos tomorrow.

Caught up with my walking buddy Teresa who I've really missed in the last few days, it was good to see her again. We are full of stories about the Camino and talked about the fact that it was mark's last day on the trail.

Here are the last two blog entries which i picked up today.

I´ve got that joy, joy, joy, joy...down in my heart
Posted: 10 Oct 2008 03:29 PM CDT
Friday evening

I arrived in the City of Joy this evening after walking close to twenty miles. There is an excitement in the air that is undescribable. For me, it was a hard day and possibly as hard as the first day. Even though I felt physically and mentally ready, the Camino sent me another lesson. You can still have a tough day. My legs felt heavy and I really did not want this day to end. Go figure. 

I am staying in the largest refugio with 800 beds. It is an amazing complex and almost like a little city in itself. I am washing my clothes, drinking a beer and writing for you. Everywhere people are laughing and celebrating. I continue to meet the most interesting people and today spent some time with a young man from Israel. 

Again, thank you for your posts and emails. They mean a lot. Tommorrow, I will take my time and walk the last six kilometers into Santiago, register for my Compostela, check into a hotel, wait and welcome some of my friends who will come in later in the day. Let the celebration begin!
 
Mark LeBlanc http://www.smallbusinesssuccess.com/

and

Arrival. Now, the real Camino begins
Posted: 11 Oct 2008 10:44 AM CDT
 
I woke up this morning and thought, "This is it." I took my time, gathered my stuff and headed for the door. Pilgrims were everywhere and the enthusiasm was contagious. And, then I saw her. A woman turned to me and let out a scream. She is from Germany and we started on day 1 together. She speaks very little English and we barely communicated. I last saw her on day 3. She looked like a whole new woman. She hugged me and tears were flowing down her cheeks she was so happy. Little reunions like this happen everyday on the Camino. I don´t know her last name and will never see her again. But, this community called the Camino is a special one and for those who began in St. Jean´s in Southern France have a special kinship. 

I arrived this morning around 11 and was spellbound by the Cathedral. I attended the noon Mass and there were 40 priest and four bishops presiding. If you watched the video (What is the Camino?) in an early September entry, you saw this amazing scene with the whole incense ceremony. They don´t do it often and yet today they did it. I was almost right underneath it. It takes eight men to make this happen. If you haven´t watched the video, go back and check it out. 

I checked into a nice hotel and will live in luxury for a night compared to the places we stayed along the way. And yet, it´s just a normal room. The Pilgrims keep trickling in and applying for their Compostela. It is an official document that can only be given when you can prove you have walked so many miles. We get our Pilgrim passport stamped every night and that is our document of proof. 

Will meet up later with the "United Nations of friends," for dinner and a party. Santiago de Compostela is an amazing city and there is a special feeling in the air. Now, that I am here, and done, I am anxious to be on my way and get home. I miss my nieces, nephews, special friends and family very much. To my clients and Achievers....this is the ultimate reset, and my life will never be the same.
 
Mark LeBlanc http://www.smallbusinesssuccess.com/


Mark I'm so looking forward to talking to you and hearing your voice. Well done, you are a star.

Tomorrow is the big day!!

It's the day that Mark finishes the Camino and walks into Santiago, look out for the final posting but to whet your appetite, here is the latest blogs from Thursday.

My moment of truth

Posted: 09 Oct 2008 02:10 PM CDTMonday Evening


It is impossible to make it from Ruitelan to Samos in one day. You will be lucky to make it to Triacastela. These were the words going through my mind as I approached the mountain top village of O´Cebreiro. Last night at dinner they laughed at me when I said I wanted to go 42 kilometers (which would be my biggest day so far) on Monday. Luis, the refugio director told me I would be lucky to make it to Triacastela and that was only 31 kilometers. I guess they thought the morning climb to the top of the mountain and the descending walk would be too difficult. 

We pilgrims, had been talking about this climb for over two weeks, so I knew it would be difficult. I wanted to make it to Samos and stay with the monks at the ancient Benedictine monastery I had heard about. When all of a sudden, I rounded a bend and froze in my tracks. About 40 yards in front of me, a large wolf was staring me down. I had heard about the possibility of a wolf sighting, but they were quite rare. I had no options except two trekking poles. Could I really defend myself from a wolf with trekking poles? The wolf started towards me. Was my will updated? When the wolf was about ten yards away, I said, "Hola!" It kept coming and I raised my spear. It just wanted to be petted. Turns out it was a large dog that looked like a wolf. I had a good laugh at that one and kept on smiling as I walked into Triacastela. 

Lucky to make it to Triacastela. I just heard the dinner bell, so have to sign off for now. I heard the monks at Samos get mad when you are late for dinner. 

Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com



477 miles walked and only 23 to go!
Posted: 09 Oct 2008 02:23 PM CDT
Thursday

Well, it´s almost over. I am in Arzua right now and just about to retire for the evening. We only have one more full day of walking and I should make it to Monte de Gozo in the late afternoon. I will stop there for sure and walk the last six kilometers on Saturday morning. My feet, ankles, and legs feel like a million bucks. It´s a good thing, since my calves and hips are killing me. The last few days I have met some great people from Brazil, Spain, England, Austria, Ireland and Italy and we have been walking, eating, and drinking together. It will be quite a celebration on Saturday night and Sunday. There is a festival on Sunday in Santiago and everyone is talking about the special Mass at noon. On Sunday night I will fly to Madrid and fly out of Madrid on Monday morning at 6:00 a.m.

Monte de Gozo is the City of Joy, and I will celebrate all of the wonderful people who have supported me and been there for me in my work and in my life. Thank you!
Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com

What dreams are made of

Posted: 05 Oct 2008 11:58 AM CDT
Saturday

As it turns out, I gave you my marching orders for the perfect day. Today is what dreams are all about. I left Ponferrada late morning and had the best stage of the entire Camino. The weather was perfect, the landscape surreal and it was harvest day for grape growers. I walked through acres of grape fields and saw groups of people picking grapes everywhere. Farmers were bringing loads of green and purple grapes into the wineries by the truck and trailer load. As I walked through one small village around 3:00 p.m. a Spanish man stopped me and asked me if I wanted to take a break with his family and have a glass of wine. The only word I understood was vino. Who could resist? I took my backpack off and joined them as they took a break from harvest and shared a glass of wine. And then when he offered another one, I held out my glass. He laughed and poured me a larger glass. I took his picture and went on my way. This was one of those days, that if you were walking with someone you loved and who loved you, it might be the best day of you life.
Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com

I wouldn't have minded being part of that day and perhaps I should be aware of the timing when Teresa and I plan that bit of the walk.......might get a glass of wine offered.

Catch up from Mark on the Camino and nearly in Santiago.

Mark's updates have always been important to me and for a number of reasons. Firstly, I was very excited when I first met him and he shared with me his intention to do the walk. In the past he has not ben a walker so each update has been letting me know how he's getting on and therefore letting me feel reassured that he's OK. Secondly, as someone wanting to do it myself, it was great to hear the stories, to hear about the experiences etc and finally , as he's so near the end I want to know how that feels as I am so far from that.

Here are two of the updates posted when I was on my first few days in France.

Ultreia! Ultreia! Posted: 03 Oct 2008 10:21 AM CDT

Right now I am in Ponferrada, and it is the last large city on the walk. After two long days on the second mountain, I decided to take a day off and checked into a hotel. I have only seven full days of walking left beginning tommorrow. I am planning to stay in Monte de Gozo, the city of joy next Friday night and then walk into Santiago on Saturday morning the 11th. I am feeling fine, but after ten days of flat land, we´re back in the hills, valleys and mountains. It´s beautiful and hard to believe it is coming to the final chapter. Ultreia means carry on or march forward. We are now seeing it written on rocks and buildings during this last stretch. I have walked 380 miles and have 120 to go. I can´t even imagine not doing this again. It is that amazing of an experience. But, believe me, it´s no walk in the park. The Camino either gets you physically, mentally, or emotionally. Ultreia! Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com

Here is how I know where to walk
Posted: 03 Oct 2008 01:08 PM CDT
Some people have written me and asked about the actual route. I am walking a plan of 31 stages. Many of the people I have met are walking a different plan of 34 stages. It´s up to you on when and where you want to break your days up. For those of you who are interested, here are my marching orders for tommorrow, Saturday. It is the 25th stage for me and only 24 kilometers.

Route from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

The pilgrims´ route leads down calle Mateo Garza to the bridge over the river Sil, crosses it and continues along the Carretera de Madrid. A few meters further on, the Paseo Huertas del Sacramento leads off to the right along the river until it crosses the railway track and passes the slag heap of the electrical power plant of Compostilla on the left. You then cross the Bajo Bierzo canal and carry on into Compostilla, passing the parish church on the left. On reaching Columbrianos which, like Compostilla, is a suburb of Ponferrada, you emerge onto the Villablino road, only to bear left off of it a few meters down along calle de las Eras, also known as the Camino Real. After going through a tunnel underneath the railway track, you soon come out onto the road to Vega de Espinareda and, a couple of kilometers later, past houses and vegetable patches, reach Fuentes Nuevas. After following the Calle Real through the village, you continue on through fertile farmland to Camponaraya, just over a kilometer away. In Camponaraya, follow the road to the outskirts of the village, where you take a path on the left opposite a wine-growing cooperative. After following the path through vineyards, you reach a low, flat hilltop, after which the path drops down into the pretty Arroyo Magaz valley, crosses the river and runs through a leafy riverside wood until it crosses the road. On the far side, you continue down a farm track through vineyards and then up a small hill, before dropping into Cimadevila, from where you enter Cacabelos along the Calle de los Peregrinos. The N-VI leads out of Cacabelos and across a bridge over the river Cua, passing the beautiful Chapel of Nuestra Senora de las Angustias on the right. 2 km later you come to Pieros passing the hilltop ruins of Castrum Bergidium. At km 406.8, bear right off the road along a path which, after crossing the Arroyo de los Valtuilles stream, narrows through dense vegetation before leading out onto a wider track known as the Camino de la Virgen, coming from Valtuille de Arriba. Less then 2 km from there, you reach the Iglesia de Santiago at the entrance of Villafranca del Bierzo.

Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com

Returned from France and Les Chemin de Saint Jacques de Compostelle.

I've spent the day in the office catching up on my emails and feeling very strange not to be walking. Life is so different when you're out on the road as I have been for the past few days.

For those of you who may have missed it, I've been walking the first four days of the St James' Way or the Camino de Compostella to give it a few of it's names. You can find out more about it .....

What is the Camino de Santiago?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y45YVNxT1go
Why I am walking the Camino?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDOTJHbwRj4 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8qCLiYScBA&NR=1

Myself and a friend and fellow walker have just done the first four days starting the Le Puy en Velay in Central France and it was fantastic. We met lots of lovely people, stayed in fantastic places, had perfect weather, the scenery was stunning and we are now planning the next section. Over the next few years we plan to walk it all.

Here are Teresa and I starting on the morning of October 2nd.

Over the next few days, I shall post more on the blog as well as accounts of the trip.

You can also catch up with my friend Mark who is near to reaching Santiago de Compostella.

From Mark - I'm dedicating the Camino

In Mark's latest post, this is what I found. It needs no explanation.

I am dedicating my walk and experience on the Camino to my mom, Lois LeBlanc, who has been and always will be the real inspiration behind my life and work. She exemplifies what it means to lead a faith-filled life and has demonstrated in real-time, the practical power of persistence. If you ever get an opportunity to meet and visit with her, you will understand what I know to be true. I love you, Mom.
Mark LeBlanc http://www.SmallBusinessSuccess.com

On Friday, Teresa and I shall be walking in your footsteps Mark.

Travel Frustrations

Time is ticking away and I'm off to start my bit of the Camino tomorrow. My husband asked me last night if I was excited yet. I am in a little way but until I get the travel situation sorted, I'm a little uneasy .

I booked my trip on Eurostar and then on French Railways the day before the Channel Tunnel fire and since then all rail services through the tunnel have been working to a different time table and one where my train leave over half an hour later than I booked and gets into Paris after all my connecting trains have left.

There is then a knock on effect as I have to be in le Puy en Velay for dinner tomorrow night to start the walk on Friday morning.

Unfortunately Eurostar have been no help at all and I'm preparing to call them again now and see what they can do so fingers crossed. At best, after yesterdays call, I will have to turn up at 6.00a.m. and hope I can on an earlier train and at worst I'll lose a lot of money and perhaps a holiday.

I'm looking on the bright side.